The Apostle Islands consist of 22 low-lying rocky islands along the south shore of Lake Superior in northern Wisconsin.
The main gateway to the islands is Bayfield, a charming lakeside town long been known for its downtown marina, great restaurants, funky shops, historic homes, and lively festivals, making it a good destination in and of itself.
In recent years, nearby Washburn has begun to offer an increasingly varied array of dining and shopping options, making it an alternative to Bayfield for those seeking a less crowded experience.
The Lake Superior shore and islands are a four-hour drive and complete change of pace from my home in Minnesota’s twin cities of Minneapolis and Saint Paul.
While I have swum in Lake Superior, the water is generally too cold for swimming. (Temperatures vary throughout the lake and some bays can be pretty comfortable in mid-summer, while others still register surface temperatures of 38 degrees Fahrenheit). Instead, the lake draws sailors, motor cruisers, kayakers, and fishermen to its pristine waters, secluded bays, and sandy beaches.
If nature isn’t really your thing (or if you just need a shore break) several small towns in the area have interesting shops and good restaurants. Bayfield is the largest and most well-known of these, with more than enough activities available to keep even those with acute aquaphobia contented for days.
When looking to wander a little farther or when coming to the islands along the shore from Duluth, Cornucopia makes a nice local art break. The only town in the islands is La Pointe, located on Madeline Island, which is a good place to stop for a little shopping and a bite to eat.
The area boasts activities year-round, from Race Week (sailing) to the sled dog races. You’ll find art and music most of the year.
The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore
The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore includes 21 of the area islands and 12 miles of mainland shore.
Established in 1970, the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is an area of great natural beauty with rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, sea caves, meadows, and forest. The mainland and some islands are home to bear, white tailed deer, and a number of small mammals. There are also reminders of human activity preserved here in the form of lighthouses, a historic fishing camp, and various foundations and ruins.
The inland David R. Obey Great Lakes Visitor Center offers a good introduction to the area’s geology, ecology, and human history.
The National Park Service operates two seasonal visitor centers on the peninsula. One is located in the old courthouse in Bayfield. The other is at Little Sand Bay. Both offer orientation and safety information, camping permits and museum exhibits. The visitor center at the headquarters in Bayfield also has a park film. Both have national parks bookstores. They are only open during the summer.
Exploring the Islands
Sailing
If you enjoy sailing and the winds cooperate, you could have a great time here without ever leaving your boat.
Of course, that boat is also your ticket to secluded bays and beaches, historic sites, and a wide variety of hikes.
Just be aware that changes in the weather, underwater rocks and sandbars, freezing weather, and changing winds off the islands make sailing here a challenge.
A boat offers a great way to see the Apostle Islands.
Hiking
There is great hiking over a variety of terrain on many of the islands.
Shore hikes range from broad sandy beaches to rocky cliffs, while inland hikes may wander through old growth forest, meander through meadows, or climb up to a point with a spectacular view of the lake.
Hiking trails offer views of the lake or wind through forests and along wetlands.
Trails are generally well marked. Trails are closed if there are aggressive bears around. (Bears can swim to any of the islands, but Stockton, Sand, and Oak often have bears living there.)
Lighthouses
The Apostle Islands are home to eight lighthouses (some historic, some still in use) and the ruins of one more. Some of them are open to the public, but there is a lot of history in all of them.
Historic Sites
The islands have been visited by humans since prehistoric times. Along with the lighthouses, a few other remnants of more recent human activity are visible at the brownstone quarries, the Manitou Island Fish Camp, and the McCloud-Brigham Farm.
Sea Caves
Occasionally the entire lake will freeze over during the winter, allowing access to the sea caves on Sand Island from the mainland.
Wildlife
A variety of small mammals, including otters (we’ve seen them right in the marina at Port Superior), can be found in the islands. While black bears might occasionally be found on any island, Stockton has a high concentration at all times of year. This year (2013) Sand Island has been closed due to a high level of bear activity. While I’ve never seen any bears in the islands, I have seen white tail deer. In addition, a large variety of birds can also be found (especially during spring and fall migration), as the islands provide various habitats.
Fishing
I don’t fish, but I do like to eat fish and I know that this part of Lake Superior supports commercial fishing for whitefish and trout as well as sport fishing. If you are interested in fishing, many outfitters are available to provide whatever level of service you may need.
Exploring Madeline Island
Madeline Island is not part of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. It is the only developed island in the Apostles, with commercial development centered in the tiny town of La Pointe.
Little La Pointe has a few interesting shops and restaurants. It’s a nice place to spend a few hours or a few days. Nearby Big Bay State Park is a pleasant spot from which to enjoy the lake or hike.
Exploring the mainland
Bayfield
A charming town with lots of lodging options; good restaurants (including our usual breakfast spot at Greunke’s); and fun shops. Bayfield is a pleasant stop any time of year.
Seasonal events include the summer Race Week over the July 4th weekend and Festival of Arts, the fall Apple Festival, and the winter Apostle Islands Sled Dog Race. Nearby, the Lake Superior Big Top Chautauqua runs a full season of arts and entertainment from June through September.
Red Cliff Indian Reservation
The Red Cliff Band of Lake Superior Chippewa own most of the lakefront land along the end of the Bayfield Peninsula. While most of that land is reserved for tribal use, both Frog Bay and the casio complex and marina in Red Cliff are open to the public.
Frog Bay Tribal National Park
Short hiking trails through a forest lead to a sand beach with views of the Apostle Islands. This is one place where you might be able to get in the water without feeling like you jumped into the Arctic Ocean! (It’s one of only two places I’ve ever willingly got into Lake Superior.)
Frog Bay has one of the few beaches that regularly gets warm enough to step into the water.
Nearby
Washburn
Washburn is a good place to stock up on groceries and offers a full range of services. It is also becoming a destination itself, with a range of dining and shopping options.
Cornucopia
Further along the shore, tiny Cornucopia is aptly named, stocked as it is with local arts and food. It’s a nice break when taking the shore route up to the islands.
Planning Your Trip
Weather
Monitor the weather diligently if you plan to be outdoors, whether on the water or hiking. Conditions can change very quickly.
Over the years (I’ve visited the Apostle Islands many times over about 20 years) I’ve encounted quite a variety of weather conditions – a few storms, some good sailing winds, dead still water on the lake, and ground fog. Because I’m usually up here to sail, I’ve never visited in winter. That means I’ve missed out on sub-zero temperatures and blizzards.
Often people say Lake Superior, known for its ferocious storms, is never still. But it can be. A 2013 sailing trip pretty much defined by the official weather summary for July 4: “The winds are calm. The waves are calm. The sky is clear.” (Perfect weather for everyone but sailors!)
While I’ve had the good fortune of never being in the islands during really severe weather, I’ve encountered wind, cold rain, and pea soup fog, as well as sunny days with gusty breezes perfect for sailing. Temperatures on my trips over the years have ranged from the low 40s (or lower at night) to the 90s, sometimes with a broad variation just from the beginning to the end of the trip.
Getting Around
Mainland areas and Madeline Island can be explored via car, bike, or on foot. Other than Madeline, no vehicles are permitted on the islands.
When the lake is open (spring through fall), there is regular car ferry service to Madeline Island. (Madeline Island also has an airport, for those with access to a private plane.) During winter travel to the island is possible via a passenger windsled or, once the lake ice has solidified, along an ice road.
Other islands can be reached (in season) via shuttle or tour service or private boats. If you aren’t lucky enough to own your own boat (or have a friend with a boat) there are marinas with charter fleets in La Pointe, Bayfield, and Port Superior (back when we used to sail more regularly, we charted through Superior Charters out of Port Superior) as well as a number of outfitters and guided expeditions. This includes a variety of options for touring the islands via Kayak.
For those wishing to improve their sailing skills, there are a number of sailing courses available in the islands, including those of Dreamcatcher, Northern Breezes Sailing School, and Superior Charters’ personalized sailing courses.
Would-be captains should seriously assess their abilities before venturing out – despite the closeness of the islands, Lake Superior is a potentially dangerous lake with storms possible at any time and frigid waters even in summer.
The same is true for kayakers. While kayaking has become increasingly popular in the islands, this is a place where you need to know what you are doing. During our visit in 2012, there was considerable chatter over the radio as the Coast Guard tried to confirm that various recreational boats had picked up all the kayakers that were in the water as a line of strong storms blew in.
The Park Service offers more information and links on their web page.
Lodging
Those with a live-aboard boat can spend nights in the marina or on the water either at a dock or anchored in one of the bays. Many islands and mainland bays have docks (usually suitable only for smaller boats and on a first-come, first-served basis) and some facilities – usually a pit toilet, but areas with more developed campgrounds also have additional facilities. The park service map identifies docks, campgrounds, and picnic areas.
Camping is available on the mainland and on 18 of the islands in the park. Permits are required to camp in the park.
Hotel, condo, and bed and breakfast accommodations are available on the mainland in and around Bayfield, as well as on Madeline Island.
Related posts
2014 End of Summer Sailing
- Evening in the Marina at Port Superior (August 27)
- Along the Beach on Rocky Island
- Rocks on the Beach on Rocky Island
2012 Fourth of July travel journals
Other Resources
- National Parks Website – Park information and links
- Midwest Weekends – Visiting the Apostle Islands
- Superior Trails – Apostle Islands travel information
- Bayfield and the Apostle Islands – Visitor’s information
- Madeline Island Chamber of Commerce – Visitor’s information
- Lake Superior Facts – Assorted factoids about the lake