Last updated on June 24th, 2024
We are fortunate to have friends who invite us up to Bayfield, Wisconsin, to sail on their boat. Usually we spend that time sailing within the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, visiting the islands or hanging out in La Pointe or Bayfield.
This year we decide to do something different and leave the islands on a jaunt across the lake to Grand Marais, Minnesota.
Our goal: The harbor in Grand Marais, Minnesota.
Our journey begins with preparations in Bayfield
It is hot and humid when we arrive in Bayfield, Wisconsin.
At the marina outside Bayfield, our friends are still working on projects on the boat.
(There are always projects on a boat, and North Wind is an older boat that is still being renovated. Besides, it hasn’t been out of the marina yet this season and we are planning to take it across Lake Superior. that means even more projects than usual.)
We have our own tasks, as we are in charge of food, so we begin by loading the boat with food and our gear while the ship’s dogs nap.
Our home on North Wind for the next few days.
Once this is accomplished, we join our friends in completing various other projects before heading into Bayfield for dinner.
Historic downtown Bayfield is a good place to be on a summer evening.
In the Apostle Islands
The next morning we awake to another hot, humid day. There are a few more boat chores to finish and then a final (quick) run into town for a few more groceries and supplies.
Finally we cast off . . . to make the short trip to the fuel dock.
But soon we really are headed out of the marina.
On the water in the islands
There isn’t a lot of wind out on the lake, but we enjoy it while we can.
Not a lot of wind, but enough to fill the sails.
Our friends sail with their dogs.
The dogs don’t seem to mind light winds.
Unfortunately, the wind vanishes as we move farther into the islands. That leaves us motoring the rest of the way to Rocky Island.
Heading toward Rocky Island for the evening.
Overnight on Rocky Island
We choose to spend the night on Rocky Island because it has a good dock and a decent anchorage if the dock is full. It also puts us far enough out to give us a jumpstart the next morning. With the dogs, we need to make the crossing to Grand Marais in the shortest time possible since there’s no place for them to go ashore once we leave the islands until we arrive in Grand Marais harbor.
At Rocky we tie up at the dock for the evening.
Our friends and their dogs take a quick dip in the lake (it was really hot today) while I stay on board and relax with a pre-happy hour drink before dinner preparation begins (steaks on the grill).
Dinner coming off the grill on a gorgeous summer evening.
Dinner, drinks, and lots of talk and laughter close out the evening.
But we can’t stay up too late. We have a long day ahead.
Motoring through open water on Lake Superior
It’s already dawn when the alarm goes off at 5 am the next morning.
The sun has yet to rise above the horizon when we awake.
We cast off as the sun rises in a molten red ball above the hazy horizon.
Sunrise over the Apostle Islands.
The water is as almost as smooth as glass.
We were worried about storms when planning this trip. But a complete lack of wind will lead to a long day of motoring.
Soon we leave the islands behind and head out into open water. With no land in sight, we are on auto pilot, making good speed (for a motoring sailboat) as the sails supplement the rumbling motor in a very light breeze.
Out of the islands, a very slight breeze creates ruffles on the water.
There’s plenty of time to relax as we slowly cross the lake.
By lunchtime we can see land in the hazy distance.
There’s land out there!
Our concerns about navigational accuracy (none of our navigational devices precisely agree, leaving us to wonder which is actually correct) come to an end as we identify Grand Marais directly ahead. Our captain’s navigation was perfect!
Coming into the harbor in Grand Marais.
Exploring Grand Marais
With no other spots available for guests, we tie up along the seawall near the forest service dock.
Visitors can tie up along the wall not far from the Coast Guard Station.
The seawall turns out to be a great spot: It’s an easy step to shore (vs using a dinghy to get to shore from an anchorage or mooring ball) and it’s close to downtown. Of course, the view of the harbor is pretty great here too.
Even the dogs seem to enjoy the view.
We take a quick walk along Artists Point as the sun goes down.
Visitors flock to Artists Point to watch the sunset.
And then watch the sun vanish for the day.
Our view from North Wind at dusk.
Wandering in Grand Marais
I should sleep late the next morning. Instead I set the alarm for 4:30 a.m.
There is a lovely little beach on the other side of this spit of land and it looks like the perfect place to watch the sunrise.
A hazy sunrise over East Bay.
Of course, a good sunrise needs to be followed by a visit to Artist Point.
Morning at Artists Point.
We chose this weekend to visit Grand Marais because the Grand Marais Art Colony is hosting their summer arts festival.
Pottery for sale in Grand Marais.
I love seeing all the art on display (a few artists are even demonstrating their technique) and appreciate the chance to catch up with an old friend who has his work on display.
I’m busy enough gawking at art that I don’t notice right away that the harbor is slowly developing a hazy layer of foggy “sea smoke.”
Fog seems to making its way toward the beach in Grand Marais.
Hmm. . . fog might be interesting out on Artist Point.
A foggy afternoon on Artists Point.
We end the day watching the fog settle into the harbor as the sun sets.
The world turns pink as sunset approaches.
And then it is evening.
Is there a better place to be?
Unfortunately our time here is coming to an end.
Leaving Grand Marais
The alarm goes off at 5 a.m. (I didn’t make plans to go to the beach for sunrise because I knew there wouldn’t be time.) When I go up on deck, I discover a magically hazy world shrouded in wispy fog.
The city is barely visible along the edge of the harbor.
Other boats in the harbor and the Grand Marais Lighthouse appear and vanish as the fog shifts.
I wish I could take my camera and go ashore. But the weather station has been warning of storms moving into the area – and into Bayfield – late in the day. So, instead, I join the others as we all hurry to cast off and head back out onto the lake as the sun rises.
The world is still and quiet as the sun rises — except for us and the sound of our motor as we head out.
Good-bye, Grand Marais!
Back on Lake Superior
There is even less wind on the lake today than when we arrived – the water is like glass.
It’s hazy and absolutely still out on the big lake.
Today it is so still we don’t even put up the sails, as they would just hang there, flopping from the breeze we create ourselves as we motor across the lake. But this time we aren’t alone. We spot a laker (a large commercial ore ship that works the Great Lakes) as we cross the shipping lanes just outside the islands.
(The Carson J. Calloway crosses well behind us.)
Usually we would return to the islands for the night in anticipation of one last day of sailing. However, with storms on the way, we continue to the marina for the night instead.
Our little sailing adventure ends where we began
After a long day on the water it feels good just to relax. There are leftovers to eat and games to play. (Despite the wonderful name, Fact or Crap would be a lot more fun if it provided some info about the answers.)
The storm doesn’t arrive until midnight, but the brilliant bursts of lighting and the wind’s loud whine as it races through the rigging are impressive. Still it is easy enough to fall asleep to the sound of the pounding rain.
The morning dawns calm, with blue sky in one direction and threatening clouds in the the other.
A sunny morning in the marina at Port Superior.
But the ominous skies are moving away from us. We have sunshine, but no wind.
And so we end this Lake Superior sailing adventure.
Discover fine art photos of Lake Superior on CindyCarlsson.com
How long did it take to cross?
Figure a full day (dawn almost to dusk) if there is little or no wind. Less if you have cooperative winds. And keep in mind that, once you leave the Apostle Islands, there’s no where to take shelter until you arrive in Grand Marais.
Thanks, Sue. Lane really likes these trips too.
What a wonderful post! Hi to Lane (who looked happy grilling!) and I’m showing this to Tom!