Denmark spring itinerary

Last updated on March 23rd, 2024

Unexpectedly cheap airfare and a chance to connect with cousins from Finland for a few days led to a week exploring Copenhagen and the Danish countryside in May 2011.

A spring get-away in Denmark

Last year an email address provided by an elderly relative on the east coast of the United States led to contact with cousins in Finland, which was followed by last summer’s visit and on-going communication via email and Facebook.

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All of this led to the following partial exchange on Facebook:

March 15:

Me: $650 rd trip Mpls to Copenhagen in May. Trying to be responsible and not book tickets. . .
One of several friends to comment: $650? That’s cheaper than driving to Oregon!

‎ March 16:

One of the Finnish cousins: what´s holding you back? book the tickets to Copenhagen and from Copenhagen to Oulu (100€) and we´ll pick you up, you are welcome to stay as long as you want to…
And: or we´ll come to copenhagen…
Me: Thinking about it. . . (the fare still seems to be there)
And then: Booked.

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May 11 – Copenhagen

So now Lane and I are waiting in Copenhagen’s airport, watching for my Finnish cousins to appear. The internet has made the world a much more closely connected place. I think that is a very good thing.

(The cousins arrive while I am in the bathroom putting in my contact lenses. Somehow, without having met before, they connect with Lane and the three of them are chatting when I return. This is going to be a good trip.)

Nyhavn

A Glimpse of Life Along the Water

May 12 – Copenhagen

Vor Frelsers Kirke – Our Savior’s Church

The Round Tower

The King’s Gardens and Rosenborg Slot

The Marble Church

It was a long, slow route from the laying of the cornerstone for the Marble Church (formally named Frederik’s Church, but more famous for its solid marble walls) in 1749 to its completion in 1894.

During that interval the Copenhagen church sat abandoned for more than 100 years – something that’s a little hard to believe today.

Amalienborg Slot

From Crayfish to Sushi

We had “snacks” late in the day in a cozy courtyard in Nyhavn.

By snacks, I really mean lunch. . .

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(They were delicious but there were a LOT of them.)I really shouldn’t need to eat again today, but we have promised to introduce my cousins to sushi and, well, there is always room for sushi!

I spend a fair amount of time researching sushi options in Copenhagen and settle on Bento, which is described as a small family-run place near our hotel.

We are greeted warmly when we enter Bento, and then immediately quizzed as to whether or not we are Danish. Huh?

My cousins explain that they are Finnish, but no, that won’t do either. You have to be Danish to eat here?

It turns out that they don’t take anything but a certain Danish credit card, hence the concern over our not being Danish. They do take cash though and a quick inventory of our combined cash-on-hand indicates we have enough money on us to eat a reasonable dinner without spending time doing dishes.

This small, family place turns out to be perfect for first-time sushi eaters, with several nice assortments of lovely fresh fish at reasonable prices. Yum!

I think my cousins even decide that sushi is pretty good.

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May 13, 2011 – Copenhagen

Rådhus – City Hall

Morning Architecture Tour

Studying Sustainability at the Danish Design Center

We visit the Danish Design Center mostly for their on-going exhibit of iconic items from the past. As we wander through, my cousin points out the dishes and telephones and other objects that she has owned over the years — and at things none of us have seen before.

Sadly, my own homes have had much less modern design sense. (And neither of us are quite sure what to make of that car.)

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The rest of the museum has exhibits on the theme “Challenge Society: Designing the Simple Solutions to a Complex Future.” The idea is that good design can help solve the world’s problems – with design being broadly defined to include processes and systems development.

I like the idea of applying the concepts of good design (“design thinking” is their term) to the development of a process. The exhibit describes a design-driven approach characterized by being holistic, user driven, future-oriented and multidisciplinary. Sounds familiar. . . I think this should qualify as paid work time!

Equally relevant to my job is the “Challenge Waste” exhibit which asks whether (and how) design can contribute to behavioral changes that would reduce waste and pollution.

It’s a fascinating exhibit that concludes with the answer to the question I’ve had ever since arriving in the city: Why is Copenhagen so dirty? I expected this to be a sparkling clean, green place and instead am finding an unexpectedly dirty, grimy place awash in cigarette butts. Ugh! The streets of Rome were cleaner. (The streets of almost any place I’ve been in the last few years were cleaner.) Now I learn 1. that I’m not imagining this and 2. designers have are working to develop messaging as well as physical changes in the environment (more and better trash bins, for example) to alter behavior. It’s a fascinating look into an everyday (and unexpected) facet of Danish culture.

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Overwhelmed at the National Museum

Train Station Goodbyes

My cousins are heading home today, so we all head back to the train station.The central train station (Copenhagen H, with the H standing for Hovedbanegård) was constructed in 1911, so has the high ceilings and dramatic metalwork of that time.

It is both elegant and gritty at the same time. We have already determined that it is always busy. And it is a fitting place to say goodbye.

Wandering and Window Shopping

Copenhagen is a great place for simply wandering about and window shopping. Indeed, it’s almost impossible to avoid window shopping in Copenhagen!

Saint Nicholas Church

We end up at the 16th century not-a-church of Saint Nicholas (Sankt Nikolaj Kirke). It’s a contemporary arts center today, but it must have been a magnificent church at one time.

(The very contemporary playground behind the church seems entirely appropriate.)

Nyhavn Reflections

We end up in Nyhavn again. Despite being so touristy, it really is a wonderful part of the city.

One way of escaping tourists is to focus on reflections in shop windows.

May 14, 2011 – from Copenhagen into the countryside

Life in a Bicycle City

Rather Random City Snapshots

Market Day in Køge

Stevns Klint

Crossing the Farø Bridge to Falster

Denmark is a land of wonderful bridges and the Farø Bridge is certainly among the more dramatic. It’s actually two bridges (that intersect with a third) on the tiny Island of Farø. It looked interesting on the map, but the southern cable-stayed portion is absolutely gorgeous – even in the rain!

Evening in Bandholm

May 15, 2011 – Lolland, Falster, and Møn

In Search of the Past at Fuglse Church

The Search Continues in Vester Ulslev

Thatched Houses Amid Fields of Gold

Lolland is not known as a tourist area, but the quiet rural roads are lined with charming thatched buildings and fields of what I think is rapeseed for canola.

Put Nysted on the List for Next Time

Back Across the Farø Bridge and on to Møn

Fanefjord Frescoes

Around Our New Neighborhood

On Møn we are staying at Tohøjgaard, a charming rural bed and breakfast. It is a pleasant spot with friendly hosts, an abundance of cats, and a view of the sea.