The Royal Tahitian in Papeete, Tahiti, is one of the island’s last 1960s era resort hotels and it retains a relaxed, low-key tropical vibe. It’s an affordable option with large, comfortable rooms, lovely landscaping, and a great tropical restaurant. It’s not perfect, but it’s hard to beat for the price!
I took this photo of our room in 2009. We had the one next to it (at the end of the building) in 2023.
I didn’t intentionally book a repeat visit to the Royal Tahitian Hotel when we returned to Papeete in 2023. But, given the reasonable price and the landscaping, I didn’t mind at all that I had. And I’d stay there again.
Tahiti is expensive, so even an affordable hotel might be more than you were expecting. Want to start off by seeing if the Royal Tahitian fits your budget? Check Expedia/Hotels.com or Booking.com here for pricing for your travel dates.
Here’s what (besides the price) I like about the Royal Tahitian. (And a few things I didn’t like as well.)
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I had considered booking the same hotel for the first night of my 2023 trip that we’d used in 2009. (Mostly because I remembered the garden so fondly.) But I didn’t actually remember what hotel we were at and was too distracted to think to look it up here before booking. (I was in a hurry and options were limited.) So, I just booked the Royal Tahitian because it looked like the best of what my budget could handle. And that worked out just fine, even though they were in the midst of some construction projects at the time.
Location
The Royal Tahitian is located about 2 miles (10-15 minutes) east of downtown Tahiti. It’s just off the the main road, but the whole area was pretty quiet in 2009 and it’s busier, but still pretty quiet today. The hotel sits on seven seaside acres behind a Mobile gas station. That seems like an unlikely location, but there’s enough distance and screening that I didn’t really realize the gas station was there until we were leaving. (And it makes a good landmark to find the hidden-away hotel — especially if you are driving and arrive at night like we did in 2009!)
It ‘s a good base for exploring the east side of the island. But, since this isn’t a tourist area there aren’t a lot of shops, restaurants, or nightlife within walking distance. Luckily, the Royal Tahitian has a good restaurant and hosts local musicians, so you don’t really have to go go anywhere for food or entertainment.
Rooms at the Royal Tahitian
The Royal Tahitian has fewer than 40 rooms. If it were a little fancier, it would be considered as a boutique hotel. And it would be a lot more expensive.
Recent upgrades may indicates that a boutique hotel designation is a goal. But for now it’s an affordable hotel with some great features, but with rooms that can look a little worn.
The hotel currently has three room types: Standard rooms, Studios, and one Suite
All room types are spacious, with a small refrigerator, side chairs, and a patio or deck outside with a couple of chairs, small table, and a view of the garden. The suite is even larger, with a seating area suitable for several people. Studio rooms also have a kitchen and table.
The view from my patio was pretty much the same in both 2009 and 2023.
SOME ROOMS HAVE BEEN UPDATED RECENTLY.
The following relates only to the ground-level standard room I had in 2023.
I liked the view and the room’s 1960s tropical vibe. I also liked the generous amount of surface and storage space, real side chairs, and how fast the air conditioner cooled the room. An update and refresh would make this a great room. . . except for one thing.
The bathroom.
I did not like the tiny, oddly-shaped bathroom. Awkwardly shoe-horned into a corner, it was barely functional. It was ok for one night and the shower itself was good once you got in it. But there’s no space for towels or anything else. (There’ barely space to stand.) Since I stayed in a standard room both times, I don’t know if bathrooms in other room types are better — although reviews seem to indicate they may be.
The Royal Tahitian’s landscaped grounds
What I remembered from our visit here in 2009 were the informal gardens in the landscaped grounds. Stepping out of my room in the morning was to step into a tropical paradise filled with flowers.
That’s still true today, although in 2023 a few spots looked as if they were either in need of some restoration or in the the early stages of such. (Keeping landscaping looking its best is a never-ending task.)
The hotel was built to preserve as much space for landscaped grounds as possible. Guest rooms and other structures are located around the edge of the property facing the gardens. That keeps the site and all rooms very private while leaving room for large, informal gardens, flowering shrubs, and a wide variety of trees.
Tropical plants create a private oasis at the Royal Tahitian.
The plumeria (frangipani) was in full bloom when I visited in 2023.
Show more about the Royal Tahitian's garden . . .
A “river” through the site ends in a small pond and serves as a water garden with water lilies, lotus, ginger, and papyrus.
Tropical waterlilies brighten the landscape.
I was glad to see there were lotus in bloom on both visits!
With all these plants and plenty of water, the grounds were also filled with birds. (Although, sadly, none of the birds we saw are actually native to the island.) And rain doesn’t really bother birds. On this recent trip, I stayed out of the rain on the covered porch of the reception area photographing birds as they pulled nesting material out of a large papyrus patch just a few feet away.
Chestnut-sided mannikins having a chat as they work over the papyrus by the hotel office.
I could have spent the entire day watching them and the other birds!
The grounds are also home to a variety of fruit trees, including few very large mangos. Visitors need to watch where they walk during mango season to avoid getting hit on the head by falling fruit. (But in exchange, you get the freshest mangos when you go to the restaurant!)
Yes, that sign warns those parking below that they risk being hit by falling mangos.
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Other facilities
While the Royal Tahitian doesn’t have all the facilities you’ll find at many newer resort hotels, it has long been noted for its exceptionally beautiful pool and waterfall. It appears those features were being restored when I visited in 2023.
Pool and hot tub
The Royal Tahitian has a pool, hot tub, and a shower area. (Day passes are available for people who aren’t staying at the hotel, but want to use the pool.
We didn’t use either the pool or hot tub on either trip. (No time in 2009. Rain in 2023.)
In 2023 the pool was open. (I’m not sure about the hot tub.)
However, it appeared that the Royal Tahitian was at the tail end of a project to rejuvenate the landscaping and water features in this area. There was nothing wrong with the pool area, but it certainly didn’t fit the oft’ repeated description “beautiful” — or my memory of the area from our our first visit.
The pool was open when we visited in 2023, but the waterfall and other features still looked like works in progress. (The houses in back are NOT part of the Royal Tahitian.)
I think this is the side of the stone building in the 2023 pool picture. In 2009 it over-flowed with flowers.
So, the pool area was not very inviting when I was there in 2023. But reviews seem to indicate it’s looking a lot better again now!
Sun deck
On the sea side of the pool area, a partially shaded sun deck usually offers seating with a view of the sea. In 2023 there was a lot of construction going on in this area and it was closed to the public. It appears some or all of this area reopened not long after my visit.
Beach
The Royal Tahitian sits above a black sand beach. Like the pool, I’ve never actually used the beach. It’s always just been part of the view from my table in the restaurant.
The beach behind the Royal Tahitian at dusk.
It’s a nice beach in that it’s sand and not rock. But, even with Mo’orea in the distance, it is far from the most beautiful beach on the island.
Eating (and drinking) at the Royal Tahitian
The gardens aren’t the only thing that makes the Royal Tahitian stand out from the few other moderately-priced hotels on Tahiti.
The restaurant is worth a visit even if you aren’t staying at the hotel. And, if you are staying at the hotel, you might as well plan to eat every meal here. (We did.) The atmosphere is Polynesia as you’ve seen it in old movies, but the place is often packed with Tahitians and travelers alike who come to enjoy the great food and drinks, a decent sunset view, and live music. All for the same price you’d pay at any nice, but not any better, restaurant elsewhere in Tahiti.
Watch the sunset with a drink, good food, and local music.
As much as I love the huge open-air palapa that houses the restaurant, I’ve never taken a picture. Just imagine an open air tropical beach restaurant of the 1960s, enlarge it many times, and you have the restaurant at the Royal Tahitian.
I suppose I never quite got around to photographing the restaurant building because I was too preoccupied with my food. The French Tahitian menu offers wide variety of options and everything we tried was delicious — and a few items were outstanding.
A lovely ceviche starter. Like every dish, it was both beautifully presented and delicious.
This coconut tart with ice cream and honey is one of the best desserts I’ve ever had.
The restaurant and bar area is very large and hosts local musicians a couple time a week. While it was particularly busy the night we were there, we didn’t have trouble getting a table. But do expect slower than usual service when there’s live music.
Is the Royal Tahitian right for you?
Would I stay at the Royal Tahitian again? Yes. I’d gladly stay for a night or two.
Would I stay there for a week? Probably not. But that’s because I like to be out doing things and only some things are easy to reach from this side of the island. If you’re just looking for a place to hang out by the pool for a week, the Royal Tahitian isn’t a bad choice — but I’d look for a similar hotel with a more inviting beach. (Although the odds of finding that at the same price are pretty slim.)
But everyone has their own needs and preferences. So, here are a few things to consider before either booking a room at the Royal Tahitian or writing it off as not good enough.
What are you looking for in a hotel?
If you are looking for a quiet, laid-back, and affordable spot where you’ll have a good restaurant and be surrounded by tropical greenery, consider the Royal Tahitian.
Look elsewhere if you are looking for a high-end, high-service hotel with lots of options for activities, dining, and nightlife.
Solo travelers or others looking to meet and mingle with other travelers might want to look elsewhere as well. The bar offers opportunities to socialize with both travelers and local residents, but overall the property is pretty private. And the rooms seem designed more for couples than singles. (I’m guessing this was a very popular hotel for honeymooners when it was new.)
Where are you coming from/going to on the island?
The Royal Tahitian is reasonably convenient if you are coming to/from the cruise terminal. Unless you are staying right in downtown Tahiti, this is about as close as any other hotel on either side of the city.
Likewise, if you want to spend a few days exploring Papeete and the the east side of Tahiti, the Royal Tahitian is a good base.
However, it’s NOT very convenient if you are going to/from the airport or anywhere on the west side of the island. That’s because you have to travel all the way through Papeete and it’s relentless traffic.
Do you need a really good wifi connection?
If you plan to work or attend meetings online, the Royal Tahitian might not be a good choice. There is wifi, but it’s not the fastest.
Tips for the best stay at the Royal Tahitian
Decided the Royal Tahitian is the right hotel for you?
Book your room at Expedia/Hotels.com or Booking.com
Here are a few things you might want to keep in mind when booking a stay at the Royal Tahitian:
- Ask for an updated room.
- Second floor rooms are more private, but there are quite a lot of stairs.
- Bring a long cable to charge your phones and other devices. There are plenty of outlets, but they may not be where you’d like them and the rooms are large.
- If you need an early or late departure, make sure the desk staff knows and confirm that someone will be available to assist you. (The front desk is supposed to be open 24 hours, but it seems sometimes it’s not.)
- Luggage storage is available, but they often have so many bags to store that they just sort of pile them around the back of the registration area. No one is likely to steal anything, but things get jumbled around as luggage is removed, so it’s not a great place to store anything fragile.
- Eat at the restaurant.
- Check the live music schedule. This is a spot where Tahitians gather to hear live music and you can join them for the cost of a few drinks or a meal.
- If you see the staff out harvesting mangos, ask if you can have one. They are delicious!
