Last updated on July 17th, 2020
When the alarm goes off at 5:30 a.m. I start wondering why I thought I had to have reservations for the 7:15 park bus. Did I really think it more likely Denali would only be visible then? That all the park’s charismatic mega fauna would be out wandering along the road? I was insane?Of course, 7:15 seems reasonable compared to the 6:45 departure. . .(I am overly worried about arriving on time, so we arrive way too early – but this does assure that we easily snag a seat near at the front of the bus.)
Before we start out, our driver gives an introductory talk with rules and instructions for the day. In particular, RJ wants us to understand how the animal spotting works and tells us:
I have to look at the road. Your job is to look for animals. When you see something, yell out Stop! Stop! At thirty miles an hour, I can bring this bus to a stop in 35 feet. Just tell us what side of the bus and where to look for whatever you see. Then be quiet and take lots of pictures.
This sounds promising and I am hopeful that the animal viewing will make up for the very dark skies overhead. (Although RJ also assures us that the weather here is very changeable and that we could still see sunshine as the day goes on.)
We’ve barely turned onto the road when someone spots a couple of moose off in the thick swampy pine forest along the road. They are nearly hidden in the trees just off the other side of the bus – so I can see them, but can’t get a good picture. Still, it seems an auspicious beginning.
There are mountains visible in the distance and it looks as though RJ is right and that the day may clear. . .
. . . and then again, maybe not.
Our first stop is at Savage River.
It would be nice to hike down to and along the river, but this is strictly a bathroom break so we are quickly herded back onto the bus again. . . I’m sure there are better things ahead.
The scenery is lovely and the clouds are still performing a bit of a duet with the sun. . .
Luckily, there are lots of animals about to keep us alert, although some, like the caribou and these Dall sheep, are little more than distant specks against the landscape.
Fortunately, there are a lot of grizzlies about, some traveling alone and others in small family groups.
They seem to be everywhere.
We have a slightly longer stop at Polychrome Overlook, but not long enough. . . even on a gray day, it is a beautiful spot and I wish we could stay longer and hike a bit!
We need to come back here.
Our next stop is Toklat River, with sweeping views up the river valley to the mountains beyond.
It looks like a good spot to watch for grizzlies.
Eielson Visitor Center, is the major stop along the route. The visitor’s center is new and cleverly designed to be sustainable, but the view is really what I care about and we sit outside in the sun, with the mountains sweeping up into the clouds all around us. It’s so beautiful here!
The landscape is so vast it’s hard to comprehend.
There are walking paths and trails here that, while relatively crowded (for Alaska) allow you to easily get a little closer to the scenery. What I like best though is that I finally have a chance to examine some of the intriguing vegetation that’s been passing by beyond the bus window.
I’m particularly taken by the gentians, which come in a variety of hues from white to purple.
It’s good that we are enjoying the views of the lower mountains and the vegetation, as Denali remains buried deep within the clouds.
Clouds that keep dropping lower and lower until they become a light rain. Time to get back on the bus.
Our final stop is Wonder Lake.
The lake is known for it’s views of Denali, but while the rain has is now just a cold drizzle, the park’s namesake mountain is still shrouded in clouds. On a rainy gray day, the most interesting thing here is the damp, boggy ground that is swathed in moss and various small berries.
Back on the bus, I try, with relatively little luck, to capture the landscape’s drama through my rain splattered window.
We are still watching for wildlife too and there is a lot of it around, including moose. . .
and grizzlies.
As we near the park entrance, the evening sun begins to break through.
I want to turn around and go back and watch the evening fall. Twelve hours was NOT enough!
