(Last Updated On: January 11, 2023)A Nile cruise is an easy and relaxing way to see the best of Egypt.
River cruise ships sail between Luxor and Aswan on short itineraries that include an impressive collection of tombs and temples. Combine your cruise with a few days in Cairo for the ideal first-time visit to one of the world’s most fascinating countries.
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From Uganda’s Lake Victoria, the Nile flows north for over four thousand miles before reaching the Mediterranean at Alexandria, Egypt.
A Nile cruise is a great way to see this ancient landscape. It is also an opportunity to explore many of Egypt’s most significant archaeological sites as you visit Luxor and Aswan.
What to expect on a Nile cruise
What comes to mind when you think of a Nile cruise?
Is it a vision from the 19th century? A dreamy picture of an elegant wooden boat with the finest luxuries drifting through a largely untraveled landscape of ancient ruins?
Painting by David Roberts Hypaethral Temple Philae (Trajan’s Kiosk) 1838 [Public domain]
In fact, those early cruises weren’t nearly as dreamy as they seem.
Early travelers on the Nile transported their supplies to Egypt and found a boat. Then they waited while the boat was sunk in the Nile to kill vermin, raised, dried, cleaned, and furnished. All before they could even begin their journey! But once the art, rugs, piano, liquor, and other necessities were in place, those early dahabiyas did indeed offer comfortable travel – at least by early 19th century standards.
Package tours were born when Thomas Cook introduced the first steamship cruise in 1869.
Today’s river cruises may lack some of the luxuries of the past. In exchange, they offer modern convinces like indoor plumbing, air conditioning, and wifi!
They’ve also changed the very definition of a Nile cruise.
Wealthy adventurers once spent months on their cruise. Even Cook’s steamship tours were multi-week adventures.
These days a “Nile cruise” is usually a three- or four-night trip between Luxor and Aswan (in the south of Egypt) on a ship that carries 50 to 300 passengers.
Ships travel during the day and cruises make only a couple of stops once under way.
The experience is similar to a European river cruise, with a few key differences. Most notably, it’s possible to book a cruise that does not include guided group tours. That makes a cruise on the River Nile a great option even for independent travelers and those of us who prefer private guides over group tours.
General itinerary
The recent increase in tourism to Egypt is bringing expanded itineraries and a bit more luxury to Nile cruising. However, the vast majority of the fleet is old and offers a pretty standardized experience.
Most cruises between Luxor and Aswan are one-way, beginning in one city and ending in the other. Cruises from Aswan include three nights on board in or near Aswan, Edfu, and Luxor. Cruises from Luxor offer usually four nights, with one in Luxor and Edfu and two in Aswan.
All cruises offer virtually identical itineraries. However, travel upriver from Luxor to Aswan is slower and on a slightly different schedule. Unfortunately, no matter which cruise you choose, many, many other tourists will join you at each stop. That’s because all ships stop at the same two sites en route. A few ships add a third stop, but that’s the only real difference.
A few higher-end cruise lines are starting to offer longer, round-trip itineraries from Luxor. These include the same stops as the one-way cruises, but in a different order. That may seem like a good way to avoid crowds, but the schedule for actually visiting each sight appears virtually identical to all others.
Some cruise lines are also extending their itinerary by traveling slightly north of Luxor to the Dendera temple complex near Qena. While this sounds like an interesting stop, it is also an easy day trip from Luxor.
Fortunately, there is time to visit major sites in both Luxor and Aswan as the cruise begins and ends. Most tours – whether booked through the cruise company or independently – will also offer the option to book a quick visit farther south to see Abu Simbel.
Other cruising options
Large Nile cruise ships are not the only option for traveling on the water. Those seeking a slower pace can travel on much smaller vessels that would look very familiar to travelers of generations past.
If you can afford it, a luxury dahabiya attempts to recreate the best of a Nile cruise from days past. At the other end of the scale, an open felucca is a budget-friendly alternative for adventurous travelers.
Both offer slower-paced travel, more stops, and a more intimate connection to the river and those who live and work along it. But only the most expensive options offer the same range of sight-seeing included in standard cruise packages.
Very few ships sail between Luxor and Cairo anymore, but there are a few. Called the Long Nile Cruise, these trips are not always available and are tend to be more expensive overall. They are ideal for relaxing and watching the scenery pass by, but there are relatively few notable sights between Cairo and Luxor.
Cruising between Luxor and Aswan
On any of the large Nile cruise ships, most sightseeing occurs while in Luxor and Aswan. That’s a good thing, as there is a lot to see in both cities. Fortunately, packaged cruise tours will include the highlights in both. To see more, independent or privately guided travelers can extend their stay in either or both cities before and/or after their cruise.
But time spent in Luxor and Aswan means only a small amount of time is actually spent cruising on the Nile. And the cruise only travels a very short stretch of the river. (You could drive it in a few hours.)
So why take a Nile cruise when you could do the same itinerary from land?
The answer is simple: A cruise offers rural scenery and a glimpse life along the Nile that is difficult to experience any other way. Besides, while you are on the river, you will see a couple of archaeological sites you probably would not get to otherwise.
Of course, it’s also a relaxing way to visit a country that can feel chaotic and overwhelming at times.
And there’s something to be said for traveling on a legendary waterway!
On the Nile
A Nile cruise is, first and foremost, about being on the Nile.
Unlike other cruises that travel at night so you wake up in a new place each day, cruising on the Nile is about watching the landscape and life along the river as you glide by.
Yes, you will visit a couple of archaeological sites. But you could as easily (and maybe more enjoyably) visit them as a day trip from Aswan or Luxor on a schedule and pace of your own choosing. So, just relax and enjoy the scenery.
Temple of Kom Ombo
The Greco-Roman Temple of Kom Ombo is on every Nile river cruise itinerary. This unusual temple is actually two in one, with half dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek and the other to the falcon-headed god Horus.
All Nile cruises stop here. Many, including the one I was on, arrive late in the day to allow visitors to see the temple when it is lit in the evening.
Kom Ombo stands right above the dock, so it’s easy to visit on your own, but packaged tours will include the entry fee and a guide.
Temple of Horus in Edfu
Cruise ships generally overnight near Edfu to allow an early morning assault on the Temple of Horus.
Or, at least, that’s how it feels.
Without a doubt, Edfu’s Temple of Horus is stunning. It’s a later temple, but a large, elaborate one. And, thanks to centuries beneath the sand, it is among the best-preserved temples in Egypt.
Unfortunately, cruise passengers must travel to the temple in horse drawn carriages.
That sounds romantic, but there’s nothing charming about old, malnourished, and badly abused horses being whipped to keep them running between the dock and temple until they collapse. It’s a gruesome scene.
Of course, a few horses are healthy and well cared for. Just not very many.
Some tour companies advise their clients to skip the Temple of Horus for this reason. That’s understandable. However, the temple is very much worth visiting.
What’s needed is a change in how you get to the temple. I wish those tourist companies that advise their clients to skip this stop would instead push the Egyptian government to buy shuttle buses and train the carriage drivers to maintain and operate them. The sooner that happens, the better for everyone.
Esna lock
While going through the lock in Esna doesn’t compare with the hours-long trip through the Panama Canal, it’s still an interesting process.
However, the best entertainment is found alongside the ship before it enters the lock.
As soon as a ship slows, it is surrounded by a fleet of tiny boats with men trying to sell cheap souvenirs to cruise passengers on the decks far above them.
They are incredibly persistent.
Esna is also home to a partially excavated Ptolemaic/Roman era temple and a large tourist market. A few ships stop to allow passengers to visit these, although most do not.
Before or after your cruise: Luxor
Cruise or no cruise, if you visit only one place in Egypt, it should be Luxor. As the site of the ancient pharaonic capital of Thebes, Luxor has the largest and most important concentration of archaeological sites in Egypt.
Luxor’s treasures are split between two locations:
- The modern city of Luxor with its temples, museums, markets, and shops.
- The tombs and mortuary temples across the river on the Nile’s West Bank.
Fortunately, all Nile cruises stop in Luxor for at least a night or two. And all packaged tours include a selection of Luxor’s highlights: Karnak Temple, a few tombs in the Valley of the Kings, and the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut. There’s lots more to see, but the other sites included in a tour package varies with each tour company.
Luxor is rich in archaeological sites, but it is also a generally pleasant city for wandering. Allow extra time to do more than just hit the highlights.
Luxor city highlights
While there are several ancient sites within the modern city of Luxor, the most significant are the Temple of Karnak and Luxor Temple. A few thousand years ago a two-mile Sphinx-lined route linked them. While several thousand years of development filled in much of that route, energetic visitors can still walk between the two. And today the wonderful Luxor Museum is located about midway between. All three should be on every itinerary, but doing them all in a day is a lot to take in.
If you need a break from ancient archaeology, you can explore the city’s shops and markets. The souk I toured by carriage in 2007 is still there and provides an authentic immersion into Egyptian culture. If you aren’t quite ready to dive in, the tourist version of the market is located around and behind Luxor Temple. It connects to the main market, so you can easily wade as deep into the local culture as you like.
Temple of Karnak
The Temple of Karnak is actually a large complex of temples constructed and modified over about 2,000 years. Karnak’s temples were largely dedicated to the sun god Amun-Ra, with a few that also honored other gods. It’s a magnificent site. It’s also the largest temple complex in Egypt and one of the largest in the world.
While there is much to see at this enormous site, it’s best known for the 134 massive carved pillars of the Great Hypostyle Hall.
It also has several large obelisks, a sacred lake, and much, much more.
Like many other temples in Egypt, there is usually an evening sound and light show at Karnak. If you want to see Karnak under lights, the light show is your only option. You’ll only see a small portion of the site, but the experience will be very different from your daytime visit. Just be aware that Egyptian sound and light shows tend to be very loud and rather high in drama. The Karnak show is said to fit this pattern.
Karnak is usually included on all Luxor tours, although it is also easy to visit on your own. There is an extra charge to attend the light show.
Luxor Temple
Often described as the most beautiful of Egypt’s temples, most of Luxor Temple was constructed around 1400 BC. It was one of Egypt’s most important royal temples during the New Kingdom, as a shrine to both the gods and the royal cult. As such, it was an important festival site.
Despite much of the temple being buried beneath other buildings for a thousand years or more, Luxor Temple has been a place of worship throughout much of its history. As occurred elsewhere in Egypt, early Christians converted part of the abandoned temple into a church. Later, a mosque was built on top of the church, and a mosque remains in use on the site today.
Luxor Temple is open all day and into the evening. We didn’t time our visit to be at the temple for sunset and into the evening when it is lit. I wish we had.
Some tours will include Luxor Temple, others will not. If you visit on your own, the fee is the same whether you visit during the day or under lights after dark.
Luxor Museum
Although not included on most tours, the Luxor Museum should be on every visitor’s itinerary.
Smaller, less-crowded, and far more modern than the old Egyptian Museum in the heart of Cairo, Luxor Museum displays the best-of-the-best of ancient and historic Egypt. All pieces were found in Upper Egypt. Every single one is a masterpiece. Informative multi-lingual signage helps you make sense of it all.
Few package tours include Luxor Museum. However, it’s located right along the waterfront, which means it’s likely a pleasant walk along the corniche from your cruise ship. It’s open until 9 or 10 pm, making it an easy evening excursion.
Luxor’s West Bank highlights
Across the Nile from the city of Luxor, lush green farmland gives way to an increasingly rugged landscape. Another significant temple is located here, but the West Bank is most famous for its tombs. Not only pharaohs, but their queens and nobles, the officials who ran ancient Egypt, and even the workers who built the tombs were buried in the desolate hills beyond the Nile’s floodplain.
While the only way to really appreciate the tombs is to go down into them, balloon tours over the area offer another perspective.
The entire Necropolis of Thebes, including the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, and Deir al-Bahri are part of a UNESCO World Heritage site.
All tour packages will include a selection of tombs in the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut’s mortuary temple, and the Colossi of Memnon. But travelers with more time have many additional options.
Morning balloon tours are generally not included in tour packages, but can be arranged by your tour company.
Despite what you may be told, photography is allowed in most tombs. However, a separate permit is required and many group tours will not arrange for this or make accommodations for individuals to purchase their own permit.
Temple of Medinet Habu
The Mortuary Temple of Rameses III at Medinet Habu doesn’t seem to be on every itinerary, but it should be.
A stunning example of New Kingdom architecture, the temple was built by the last great pharaoh of Egypt. It was once part of a large complex that included a royal palace, workshops, administration buildings, and housing for a vast array of priests and officials. Like all ancient Egyptian buildings, the temple would have been brightly painted. Unlike many temples, Medinet Habu retains a fair amount of color.
This is a beautiful, uncrowded site with some particularly interesting wall carvings. Even if it isn’t included on your tour, find time to visit.
Valley of the Kings
The Valley of the Kings is the reason most people venture to this part of Egypt, as this is where the pharaohs hid their treasure-filled tombs.
Treasure hunters of all types have long since emptied the tombs of their material riches, including the mummies themselves. However, the colorful paintings that guided departed pharaohs into the afterlife are often still intact.
The valley itself is split into the East Valley, where most royal tombs are located, and the West Valley, where nobles, high officials, and other notables were buried.
Of the 63 royal tombs discovered thus far, 26 were carved for kings. Fewer than 20 royal tombs are ever opened to tourists, and only a handful are open at any one time. A ticket to visit the Valley of the Kings covers entry into almost any three of the open tombs. The exceptions are the tombs of Tutankhamun and Ramses V and VI, which have a small additional fee, and the tomb of Seti I, which has a much higher fee.
Your guide can tell you which of the open tombs have the best paintings. Although the same themes appear in most tombs, each is unique.
Tombs with special fees
As noted, several tombs require an additional fee to enter.
The small extra cost of a ticket to enter the large and beautifully decorated tomb of Ramses V and VI (KV9) is well worth it.
The tomb of Seti I (KV17) can sometimes be visited for a rather large extra fee. Unfortunately, it was not open when I visited. While expensive to visit, it’s said to have exceptional paintings.
Of course, of all the tombs in the Valley of the Kings, the most famous is that of the boy king Tutankhamun (KV62).
Not discovered until 1922, the tomb had never been robbed and yielded treasures of almost unimaginable value and beauty. Those are now in the Egyptian Museum, but visitors can still see Tut’s gilded sarcophagus and the tomb’s painted walls.
Some tours include entry to King Tut’s tomb, but not all. Most group tours will not allow individuals to add any additional tombs except, sometimes, Tut’s. But it never hurts to check.
See Hidden treasure awaits in Egypt’s Valley of the Kings for information on the tombs and travel tips.
Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir El-Bahari)
One of the most fascinating figures of ancient Egypt, Queen Hatshepsut stole the throne from her stepson and ruled as a king. Although lost to history for a few thousand years before being rediscovered, she was a great ruler who brought peace and prosperity to Egypt.
The grand Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut is considered an architectural masterpiece. While much was destroyed by her stepson when he finally became king, on-going restoration is bringing more information on Hatshepsut’s reign to light.
This site is generally included on all tours.
Valley of the Queens
Egyptian queens were buried with their husbands until the 15th century BCE. After that time, and continuing for about 500 years, the wives and family of the pharaoh (along with various nobles), were buried in an area now known as the Valley of the Queens.
Queen Nefertari, the beloved wife of Ramses II, was buried here in what is claimed to be one of the most beautiful tombs in Egypt.
Several tombs can be visited for a small fee. After being closed to visitors for many years, a substantial additional fee allows a brief visit to the tomb of Queen Nefertari.
Most group tours do not include a visit to the any tombs in the Valley of the Queens.
Valley of the Nobles
Another nearby area includes hundreds of tombs built for nobles and important officials. The Tombs of the Nobles are grouped together in five sites. Unlike royal tombs that focus on passage to the afterlife, these tombs feature scenes of daily life. Lonely Planet calls these tombs “some of the best least-visited attractions on the west bank.”
Tickets are sold separately for each group of tombs. These usually aren’t included in group tours.
Village of the Workers (Deir Al Medina)
To ensure workers building the pharaoh’s tomb didn’t divulge its location, they and their families lived in a village specially built for them near the tombs. When not working on the royal tombs, they built their own tombs in the hills above the village.
The tombs of the workers are smaller and more claustrophobic than those of the pharaohs, but they are every bit as interesting and colorful. And, like the tombs of the pharaohs, they are decorated in a variety of styles.
Both the remains of the village and several nearby tombs can be visited on the same ticket. Photo passes are also available.
This area is seldom included in group tour packages.
Colossi of Memnon
Two giant statues of a pharaoh on his throne are all that remain of what was once a vast mortuary temple complex. There name derives from ancient Greco-Roman visitors who thought the figures depicted an ancient African king killed in the Trojan War.
They actually represent Pharaoh Amenhotep III, ruler of Egypt during a period of great power and wealth.
This will be on your itinerary because there is a restroom here. Otherwise, while it’s a bit mind-blowing to consider how large this temple was, there isn’t a lot more to see.
Side trip to Quena
Some cruises now include a stop in Quena to visit the Temple of Hathor in Dendera.
Although older structures exist on the site, this is largely a Greco-Roman temple. It is one of the best-preserved in Egypt. However, this area only recently re-opened to tourism, so it’s not on many itineraries yet.
Located about 1½ hours north of Luxor, it’s also possible to visit Dendera as short road trip.
Before or after your cruise: Aswan
Aswan is in Nubia, the remains of what was once the ancient African empire of Kush. The heart of Nubia is located along the Nile in modern Egypt and Sudan. While Nubians have a distinct culture and history of their own, they have long been part of Egyptian history as well, even ruling as pharaohs. But for modern Egyptian travelers, this is where Africa begins.
While Aswan is a delightful place to explore, it’s also worth traveling deeper into Nubia to see the temples of Abu Simbel.
Aswan highlights
In Aswan modern travelers find scenes that look like Egypt as you imagine it existed only in the distant past: The Nile flows past palm trees, mosques, and ancient temples backed by towering hills of glowing sand. It’s like a postcard from a well-traveled great-grandparent come to life.
Nile cruises spend a night (or two) in Aswan. Tours take visitors to Philae Temple, the Northern Quarries, and the High Dam. Tours also usually include a short felucca cruise of some sort. Most also offer an add-on excursion to the temple at Abu Simbel.
Temple of Isis at Philae
One of the last classical Egyptian temples built, the Temple of Isis on Philae Island was moved to its current location in the 1960s to save it from the rising waters of Lake Nasser. The reconstructed temple complex is large and grand with plenty to see. While still referred to as Philae Temple, it’s not actually on Philae Island anymore.
But it’s still pretty amazing.
And, as was true of the original temple, it can only be reached by boat.
It’s a short, but colorful, trip.
Philae Temple is the northernmost site included in the Nubian Monuments World Heritage Site.
The evening sound and light show at Philae Temple includes walking through part of the temple.
A visit to the temple is included in every Aswan tour. The evening sound and light show usually is not.
The Unfinished Obelisk
Aswan is home to quarries that provided varies types of granite for sculptures and structures in both ancient Thebes (Luxor) and Memphis (Giza).
Tours focus on the Northern Quarries and feature the Unfinished Obelisk. This monster of a monument would have been much larger than any obelisk ever carved, but the project was never completed. Today you can see it still lying in the quarry, only partially released from the surrounding stone.
While the size of the obelisk is impressive, carvers’ signatures, graffiti, and tool marks throughout the quarry are more intriguing, as they are a very real connection to the people who toiled here a few thousand years ago.
The Unfinished Obelisk is included on most tours in Aswan.
Boat tours on the Nile
Aswan is a great place to get out on the Nile in a small boat. Fortunately, a short felucca and/or motor boat cruise is included in most packaged tours.
An open felucca is the traditional boat of the Nile.
A day sail on a small felucca offers an opportunity to see a few local sights or take in the sunset. Best of all, it lets you experience life on the river as generations of Egyptians have known it. And it’s a lot of fun – if it isn’t too calm or too windy.
For longer journeys, to travel through what remains of the Nile’s first cataracts, or for travel when the wind isn’t cooperating, take a small motorized tour boat.
A fleet of these small motor boats travel through a variety of channels and small rapids between Aswan and several colorful Nubian villages. This area is gorgeous, with lush greenery backed by towering desert hills.
Several Nubian villages welcome tourists with colorful traditional architecture, cafés, and markets.
While these can be reached via land, traveling there by boat is popular and a lot more fun.
Small boats are also the way to reach the Aswan Museum and Nubian villages on Elephantine Island, as well as the Aswan Botanical Garden on El Nabatat (Kitchener’s) Island.
Nubian Museum
The Nubian Museum is said to have an excellent collection of artifacts, many rescued from sites now flooded by the High Dam. It’s not generally included in group tour packages.
We didn’t allow enough time in Aswan to see it, which I regret.
High Dam
Egypt is, perhaps justifiably, proud of the High Dam at Aswan.
Unfortunately, you don’t actually tour this engineering marvel on a “tour” of it. I didn’t really even see it at all. Instead, a stop at the High Dam provides views of the old Aswan “Low Dam,” Philae Temple, and lots of water.
There is also an opportunity to peruse informational signage about the High Dam while walking along a nicely landscaped path.
A visit to the High Dam seems to be included in every tour. Maybe I missed something, but I don’t care to spend my precious travel time “touring” a site I can’t actually see. If you are traveling on your own or with a small group, skip this and spend your time at the Nubian Museum instead.
A side trip to Abu Simbel
Most tours will offer an optional excursion to Abu Simbel, traveling either by air or highway. Abu Simbel is definitely worth visiting, but a day trip isn’t a particularly pleasant way to do it. That’s especially true if you are traveling overland rather than flying.
The Abu Simbel area is quiet, but interesting, with a strong Nubian presence even after Lake Nasser flooded most Nubian homes and villages. It’s worth spending a night in a small lodge or Nubian guest house. From there, take a cruise on Lake Nasser and then visit Abu Simbel for the evening sound and light show. Return in the morning to tour the temple before the crowds arrive.
You probably won’t find a package tour that offers an overnight option, but any tour company should be able to arrange it for you.
Temple of Abu Simbel
While there are a number of minor temples in the area, the Temple of Abu Simbel refers to two monumental temples built for Ramses II as monuments to himself and Queen Nefertari. Originally carved directly into a solid rock hillside, in the 1960s the temples were cut apart, dismantled, moved, and painstakingly reconstructed nearby to save them from flooding caused by the High Dam.
If you are wondering whether it is worth the time and expense to see a couple of rebuilt temples, the answer is yes.
Buried by sand for a few thousand years, the interior of the reconstructed temples is beautifully preserved.
Abu Simbel is part of the Nubian Monuments World Heritage Site.
Package tours generally only include a visit to the temple, usually arriving in the morning and leaving by mid-day.
Lake Nasser
Abu Simbel was not the only temple rescued from the rising waters of Lake Nasser. A few others were also relocated, some of which can be seen only from the water.
The combination of ancient ruins, Nubian buildings, and a bit of nice scenery make an afternoon cruise on Lake Nasser sound lovely. Unfortunately, it was very windy when we visited. Too windy to be out on the water.
I hope you have better luck.
Tips for planning your cruise
Planning a Nile river cruise is as simple or complicated as you make it.
Complete package tours that include flights to Egypt, transfers, the cruise, tours, and even tours in Cairo are offered by many cruise lines, travel companies, and travel agents. They are only a phone call or click away.
For a more customized experience, there are plenty of tour companies and agents that will arrange your cruise, tours, and more to perfectly meet your needs.
And, of course, you can always do your own research and book everything yourself. Both the nature of a Nile cruise and the ubiquity of the internet make that a very realistic, if time-consuming, option.
But, even if you simply plan to book a package online with a cruise or tour company you’ve used before, there are a few things to consider.
When is the best time to take a Nile cruise?
October and April are generally cited as the best months to visit Egypt. They boast comfortable daytime temperatures with cool evenings, although April can have a few days of wind and dust storms.
In general, travel anytime between October and mid-May offers comfortable to cool daytime temperatures, especially in the south. However, evenings can be cool to cold during winter and late winter and spring can be windy.
This is also the peak season for travel in Egypt. Perhaps surprisingly, the Christmas and Easter holidays are particularly popular with visitors. Expect the biggest crowds and highest prices around those times.
Egypt gets very hot in summer. This is especially true in southern Egypt, where temperatures reach over 100 Fahrenheit (40 Celsius). With little shade, there are few opportunities to escape the heat. It’s hot outside and even hotter inside tombs and other enclosed spaces.
There really isn’t a rainy season in Egypt. In winter, Alexandria gets rain and the Sinai’s mountains can get snow. But the rest of Egypt is a desert. Cairo can be cold and cloudy in winter, but it gets little rain. Farther south, rain is very rare.
Both of my trips to Egypt were during February.
On my first trip, Cairo was unexpectedly cool and even cold at night. On the other hand, Luxor was pleasantly warm.
In 2019 the weather was also cool, even in the south. Cool temperatures and a steady wind made both Abu Simbel and my time on the Nile unpleasantly chilly. (Cruising north, against the wind, didn’t help either.)
Next time I’ll probably travel in the fall to try to catch more comfortably warm weather and less wind.
A boat for every type of traveler
I’ve focused on cruising on a standard Nile river cruiser because that is by far the most popular way to cruise the River Nile. It’s also what I did. However, there are other options. The most common alternative is a dahabiya or a felucca, but there are also a few luxury yachts that offer Nile cruises. Each offers a very different experience.
- Nile river cruisers are perfect for tourists looking for an easy and relatively relaxing way to see many of Egypt’s marquee attractions. It’s basically a floating hotel.
- Cruising on a felucca is all about the experience, not the sights.
- Cruising on a dahabiya is an upscale version of cruising on a felucca. As with a felucca, the experience is really important. But there are a variety of dahabiyas, and many make sure travelers see all the sights visited by large river cruise ships.
- A relative newcomer to the Nile cruise fleet, luxury yachts are what you get when a big river cruiser marries a fancy dahabiya. Most seem to be used as private charters of for small, upscale group tours.
River cruise ships, dahabiyas, and luxury yachts can be booked online, through a tour company, or through many travel agents.
Aside from one or two luxury options, feluccas are usually booked at the dock (where you can inspect them) or through a local agent.
What is it like to travel on a large Nile cruise ship?
Scores of large Nile river cruiser ships travel between Luxor and Aswan. While there are differences between them, they all have a lot in common.
A Nile cruise is similar to a European river cruise
A Nile River cruise is similar to a European river cruise, although the distance covered is even shorter. On lines that also run European river cruises, the experience on board should be almost identical.
Unlike European River cruises, where cruises come packaged with guided tours at every stop, there are many Nile cruise ships where you can book just the cruise without any tours. That allows you to choose a ship and then tour on your own or with your own guide. We did the latter, and this is the way to go if you want to get the most out of your trip for the money you spend.
A river cruise might surprise ocean cruisers
If you are only familiar with ocean cruising, a journey along the Nile may surprise you.
- Travel is generally done during the day.
- Ships are small, with no more than 300 passengers, and usually many fewer.
- Amenities are limited. Ships generally seem to have an outdoor pool and hot tub, a lounge with a bar, a small gift shop, and basic evening entertainment. Many also offer basic spa services. Some have a workout room. But that’s about it. There isn’t a casino, theater, or indoor pool.
- There is usually only one dining room and it is open on a specific schedule. Meals will be either buffet-style, served from a very limited menu, or a combination of the two.
- If you are traveling with a European river cruise company, complementary wine and beer may be provided with dinner. On other ships there will be a separate charge.
- Even on many older ships, most rooms have large windows. Some ships have French balconies that allow you to open the windows like a sliding door, but without an actual balcony to step out on.
- Although new ships are rapidly being added to the fleet, the long absence of tourists means many ships are older than you would find elsewhere.
- All stops are along shore, so there are no tenders.
Double and triple docking
As with European river cruises, ships line up at the dock or shore next to each other (side by side) so they are double, triple or even quadruple docked.
This means you will seldom have a view from your room while at a dock. (The length of Nile river cruise ships varies, so sometimes rooms at the very front or back of the ship have a view even when docked next to another ship.)
This style of docking also means you usually need to walk through another ship to get to shore. Fortunately, unlike some European river cruisers, Egyptian ships usually let you walk straight through from one reception area through the next without having to cross up and over the top of each boat. Of course, that may change as more “exclusive” cruise companies move into the market.
What is it like to travel on a Dahabiya?
If you’re vision of a Nile cruise ship is an elegant, old-fashioned wooden ship with big sails, you are probably picturing a dahabiya.
Popular in the 19th century, dahabiyas fell out of favor as steamboats made travel on the Nile faster and more reliable. But today cruising on a dahabiya is a coveted luxury experience.
Modern dahabiyas are designed to look like the elegant ships of old. They are generally very comfortable and well-appointed, although without a swimming pool. As they cater to an upscale luxury market, accommodations, food, and service are usually very good.
As small ships, they take no more than 20 passengers. Half that is not unusual.
Dahabiyas are powered two large sails. But wind is an unreliable source of power. So, today many are accompanied by a tow boat to pull them when there isn’t enough wind. While not particularly romantic, it allows them to maintain a set itinerary and schedule.
Many dahabiyas sail only between Esna and Aswan.
Despite the shorter distance, dahabiya cruises are often longer than typical Nile river cruises, sometimes lasting a full week.
That time is used both to explore on shore and relax on board. As they travel along the Nile, dahabiyas visit the temples at Kom Ombo, Edfu, and Esna. But their small size allows them to pull up almost anywhere, allowing travelers to visit places where larger ships cannot stop.
Actually sailing on a dahabiya is a big part of its appeal. And, if you want the best wind for sailing, cruise south from Esna to Aswan. That usually puts the wind behind you.
If you can afford it, this looks like a wonderful, and truly relaxing, way to cruise the Nile.
Feluccas
Feluccas are the traditional work boats of the Nile.
Powered only by wind, traveling by felucca is truly a step back in time.
Feluccas only travel portions of the Nile between Luxor and Aswan. They only sail during the day. And they only sail when there is wind. Combining those factors means a trip by felucca is slow and the schedule is largely controlled by the current and wind.
A felucca is also usually very basic, with no cabins or running water. Overnight accommodations generally consist of mattresses on deck or camping along the shore. Some boats have toilets on board, others have a support boat that provides toilets, showers, and a kitchen. The most basic rely on shore stops for restroom breaks and cooking.
All cruises will provide basic meals and an opportunity to meet local residents and visit destinations larger boats can’t reach.
Travelers interested in cruising on a traditional felucca are generally advised to check out the boat and captain before booking and to bring extra snacks, beverages, and a sheet or blanket.
There are a few luxury feluccas with enclosed sleeping quarters. But there seem to be very few of these and the definition of luxury seems to vary considerably.
Choosing the right cruise
Once you know your general options, it’s time to make some decisions.
Are you going to book that river cruise you saw advertised on Travel Zoo? What about the private dahabiya tour your cousin’s travel agent recommended for the family? Or maybe you want to just wing it a book a felucca when you get to Egypt.
With so many options available, it’s important to understand what matters to you and those traveling with you.
This chart provides a general guide to help you choose the type of cruise that best matches your needs and expectations.
It should also help you decide whether to:
- Book a cruise package that includes all tours.
- Book a cruise that doesn’t include tours and arrange your own guides and/or tours.
- Hire a travel agent or tour company to plan your and book your cruise and tours. While a range of options are available, this makes the most sense if you want your own guide.
This doesn’t address the amount of travel time you have available. That’s important when you select a specific itinerary. But it isn’t included here because it doesn’t limit how you travel or what you see and do while traveling, only how much you can do in the time you have.
Up river, down river, or round trip?
It seems pretty straightforward. Most cruises are travel either up or down the Nile with passengers staying on board for three or four nights. But it’s a little more complicated than that.
One-way cruises between Luxor and Aswan
Nile river cruise ships offer both three- and four-night itineraries. Both include the same stops, but the four-night cruise usually ends with two nights in Aswan.
With nearly identical (reversed) itineraries, the only meaningful difference is the length of the cruise, the wind, and the price.
- Traveling down-river from Aswan to Luxor:
- Three nights because the ship travels faster with the current
- Windy and cool or even cold, because you are sailing against the prevailing wind
- Cheapest
- Traveling up-river from Luxor to Aswan:
- Four nights because the ship is moving more slowly against the current
- Warmer and more comfortable on deck because you are traveling with the wind
- More expensive
The logistics of getting to and from Aswan and Luxor are pretty much the same and it’s equally easy to add extra time in either city.
Cruise from Aswan to Luxor if you:
- Are on a tight budget
- Are traveling in the heat of summer
- Want a dramatic change of scenery and pace*
Cruise from Luxor to Aswan if you:
- Are bothered by wind or cool weather
- Have your heart set on making use of the pool
- Book a fancy ship and want more time to enjoy it
*If you arrive in Aswan after a few days in Cairo you will feel you have arrived in a different world. Take a short cruise through the narrow channels of the Nile in Aswan and you will ask over and over: “Is this real?” You won’t get that feeling when you arrive in Luxor. So, for culture shock of the best kind, head directly to Aswan after spending time in Cairo!
Round-trip Nile cruises
Round-trip cruises on the Nile are not unusual for small boats. However, they are relatively rare on larger Nile cruise ships.
I haven’t seen many of these offered elsewhere, but Viking’s Pharaohs and Pyramids tour includes a seven-night round-trip Nile cruise that begins and ends in Luxor.
It’s a nice itinerary that includes a couple stops not on most itineraries. The downside is that your time in Aswan is really limited if you choose to visit Abu Simbel. Of course, your time in Luxor is pretty limited too. That’s how packaged tours work.
Expect to see more companies offering similar round-trip itineraries of various lengths in the future.
Choosing the right ship
Once you’ve decided on the cruise length and direction of travel, the next step is finding a ship.
In the past couple of years tourism to Egypt has been rebounding quickly. That means new, state-of-the-art ships are being added to the cruise fleet.
But most ships are older; some are very old. Unless they’ve been given a good overhaul, older ships can be pretty basic and worn. And, of course, ships that haven’t been well-maintained and updated over the years can have much more serious problems.
However, older doesn’t necessarily mean bad – our ship was older, but with large cabins, wifi, updated furnishings, and floor-to-ceiling windows that opened.
Here’s a list of things to consider when choosing between ships offering the itinerary of your choice:
- If you want to book a package that includes tours:
- Are tours available in your language?
- Are they included in the cruise price or is there an additional cost?
- What sights are included? Does it include those that most interest you?
- How many sights are included each day? Too many, too few, or just right?
- How many passengers does the ship take?
- What is the ship’s age and condition?
- How large are the cabins and what amenities are included?
- Do the windows open?
- Are there French balconies?
- Is there wifi?
- Is there a safe?
- What other things matter to you (mini-fridge, TV, etc.)?
- Is there heat and air conditioning and does it work?
- Food
- Set menu or buffet?
- International, Egyptian, or something else?
- Open or assigned seating?
- Is food available outside of regular meal times?
- Is alcohol available? (It usually is, even in Egypt, but if it matters to you, ask.)
- Is it included at meals? (Usually not.)
- What is available when it comes to lounges, spas, workout rooms, pools, and other amenities and services?
- Does staff speak your language?
- Are there any known safety or security issues?
- What is the price?
Unfortunately, these answers can be very hard to find online. My usual go-to sites for reviews, TripAdvisor and Cruise Critic, are worthless for most Nile cruise ships. Even reviews for ships owned by major cruise lines like Viking can be hard to find.
Furthermore, not all ships can be booked by individuals. Many are only available through tour agents and other travel professionals. Others are may be reserved for large package tours.
If you are working with an experienced travel agent, just trust them. They know as well as anyone what ships their customers like and which ones are best avoided.
Cruising on the MS Concerto
The MS Concerto was our home for three nights on the Nile. We traveled on the ship, slept there, and took our meals on board. However, we had our own guide for sight-seeing.
Our tour company booked our Aswan to Luxor cruise and arranged for our guide. The MS Concerto was our agent’s second-choice ship for us, but his first choice filled between the time we started planning and the time we actually booked. That was ok, as we were happy with the Concerto.
Cabins on the MS Concerto
We enjoyed our time on the Concerto. We were particularly pleased with our cabin, which was bigger and nicer than the cabin we got a month later on our European Tulip Time river cruise. (The Tulip cruise made up for the difference in cabin size and comfort with much better food.)
While clearly not a new ship, the Concerto was clean and comfortable, with updated furnishings and plenty of space. But I’ll be honest, given the fabulous floor-to-ceiling windows and French balcony, I would have happily put up with lot that wasn’t great!
Our cabin was one of more than 60 standard cabins. It included side chairs by the window, working outlets, adequate (if not always particularly convenient) storage space, TV, and a very large and comfortable large bed. There wasn’t much for desk space, but there was plenty of space to move around or just sit and enjoy the passing view.
Likewise, the bathroom was much larger than I expected. It was also attractive and very clean. We did have one minor issue (I don’t even recall what), which was addressed immediately.
But that points to one of the shortcomings of the MS Concerto. While the furnishings were updated so she looks great, the structure and mechanicals have some issues. Some light switches didn’t work. More significantly, we never did get the safe to work. Every day someone came in and “fixed” it, only to have it stop working again the next time we went to use it. It needed to be replaced.
Staff and crew
Overall, the staff was great – friendly and generally helpful.
Some did not speak English very well, but everyone could understand and respond to requests related to their duties. And for anything else, we could call on our guide to help. But there really weren’t any communication issues.
Meals
Meals were served at specific times each day, although the exact schedule varied some from day to day. Passengers were assigned a seat the first evening, and that is where you sat for each meal for the rest of the cruise.
But the food was disappointing. The food wasn’t bad. It’s just that even very basic Egyptian food is good, but meals on board were built around mediocre international and Asian items.
The breakfast buffet was fine, not wonderful, but more than adequate. It was supplemented by an station where omelets and other egg dishes could be prepared to order. It would have been wonderful, but some things were only fresh the first day.
Lunches were uniformly disappointing, with a buffet that served a weird mix of mostly “international” foods that just weren’t very good. We expected a great selection of mezze, but a wonderful dish would appear one day, never to be seen again. Meanwhile, a lot of boring and not terribly appetizing salads were available every day. A large selection of wonderful bread was available the first day, but the variety and freshness decreased each day. The buffet always included a number of entrees, including an always-terrible Asian dish and a few other odd International selections. Fortunately, fish was also always available, along with a basic beef and chicken preparation. I quickly learned that the fish was always wonderful. The chicken was also usually good, but not as dependably so as the fish.
Dinners were plated. A different each night menu offered a couple of options. The food was good – much better than most of the lunch options, but not fabulous. As at lunch, the fish was always a great choice and, usually, the best choice.
Alcoholic beverages
Wine and beer were available for purchase at dinner. However, wine was only available as a full bottle or a smaller single-serve bottle. This is normal for Egypt, where wine, and even beer, are rarely available by the glass.
The only local wine available on the ship was not my favorite. (There are at least two Egyptian labels being produced, but I only saw one.) However, it was reasonably affordable. European options were very, very expensive. I suspect we could have brought our own wine or beer to drink with dinner without issues had we planned to do so in advance, but I don’t know that. It’s something to check on if you enjoy a glass of wine with dinner.
A range of alcoholic beverages was also available in the bar.
Public areas and amenities
Aside from the reception area, which was a bit small, public spaces were big and comfortable. There were plenty of places to sit by windows and watch the scenery. There were a couple of lounge areas, one of which I found particularly nice, with comfortable chairs and big windows.
Wifi throughout the ship was better and more reliable than I expected. Not fast, but usually adequate.
The roof deck had a lot of space, lots of comfortable seating, a bar area, a shallow pool, and a hot tub. Unfortunately, it was too cold to spend time there!
Evening entertainment consisted of local performers and several participatory activities in the lounge.
The small gift shop carried a lot of souvenirs and a few nicer pieces. I’d been hunting all over for a pair of gold earrings and finally gave up bought a pair I liked in the gift shop. I’m sure I paid too much, but it was something I was looking for and it was the only ones I found that I liked and could afford.
Passengers and tours
We were almost the only Americans on our sailing.
Other passengers include a few Europeans, a number of Middle Eastern couples and groups of various sizes, and a large group of Asians. Everyone was traveling either independently, with a private guide, or as part of a larger tour group.
Aside from notices announcing landing and departure times, there were no tour services provided by the ship.
We had a wonderful guide who either traveled on ship or met us when the shipped stopped. It was an ideal arrangement for us.
Booking your trip
While there are only a few variations in most Nile cruise itineraries, there is a bewildering array of ships available, some of which include tours and some of which do not. The easiest way to sort through it is to use a travel company you trust or a knowledgeable agent who can sort it out for you.
That doesn’t mean you can’t book everything yourself. Just be prepared to spend a fair amount of time sorting through options and making the actual booking.
Make your own arrangements
If you like planning every detail of your trip or have very specific needs, you can book everything yourself.
Although not all ships take independent bookings, some do. Some offer guided tours as part of their package, some do not. But independent travelers will find a range of options, quality, and prices available.
Book a package tour that includes a cruise
Many traditional tour companies offer a Nile cruise as part of their regular Egypt tour offerings. For example, I’ve taken tours in other parts of the world with both Gate 1 and Friendly Planet. Both offer Egypt tours that include a Nile cruise. This can be an economical way to see Egypt’s highlights without the challenge of planning your own trip. However, group size can vary considerably (and can be very large) depending on the tour company you choose.
Of course, there are also plenty of high-end travel companies that offer Egypt tours that include a Nile cruise.
In addition, most European River cruise companies seem to have a presence in Egypt now. Thus, you can book a Nile cruise through Viking, Uniworld, or a number of other companies, just as you would for a cruise on the Rhine or Danube. The difference is that these companies usually package the cruise as part of a larger Egypt tour.
Use an independent travel agent or tour company
As a photographer, I’m pretty picky when it comes to where I go and when. But I don’t have a lot of time to plan all my own trips. So, when I decided it was time to return to Egypt, I immediately sent an email off to my old friend Romani Gaballa at Egyptian Edu Travel in Cairo.
Romani arranged and guided most of the Egypt tour I took in 2007.
That was a great tour, with a fascinating itinerary. And Romani was a great guide.
Over the years Romani and I stayed in touch. He and his family have even had dinner at my home on one of their trips to the USA. All that time I wanted to return to Egypt with my husband (I went solo the first time), so he too could see this amazing country. We didn’t get there right away, and then the Arab Spring made travel uncertain. Finally, things came together to return in 2019.
To plan our trip, I started with the itineraries for some of the packaged tours Romani offers, including various day tours and extensions. From there I took out things, added things that weren’t on his standard tours, set some priorities, suggested adding more days, and gave him a general idea of how much I was willing to spend, and asked him to put something together. The only things I asked to handle on my own were flights and most meals.
His initial itinerary included a few high/low options for cruising and hotels so I could decide which made the most sense for me.
We ended up with a ten full days in Egypt, all privately guided, and with all lodging.
The trip was great. So great, that my husband (a more reluctant traveler than I) has agreed to return when the new Egyptian museum opens.
Even with a small “friends of Romani” discount, my tour was more expensive than similar budget tours offered by companies like Gate 1 or Intrepid. It was roughly comparable to the cost of doing a similar group tour with a company like Road Scholar. However, it was much cheaper than a Viking River Cruise tour or any number of premium tour companies. And, of course, you can make your private tour as expensive as you like by adding more up-scale accommodations, activities, and meals.
Aside from being more expensive than a pre-packaged budget tour, the only challenge to booking a private tour in Egypt is finding someone who understands what you want, has the knowledge and contacts to arrange it, and can be trusted to give you a decent value for your money. Fortunately, I already knew Romani!
Egyptian Edu Travel
Egyptian Edu Travel is an Egyptian tour company that has long specialized in educational travel to Egypt for high school and college students. Over the years they have expanded their offerings to address the needs of a broader range of clients. Company founder and owner, Romani Gaballa, has been a certified Egyptologist Tour Guide since 1993. He arranged and guided my first trip to Egypt in 2007. While he’s highly competent and knowledgeable, he’s also just a great guy to work with and be around.
Romani arranged the itinerary, lodging, cruise, transport within Egypt, and guides. The arrangement included having a guide for all of the stops on the river cruise. Having the brilliant Raymon Bolis as our private guide made everything easy and added a ton of value. It also allowed Romani to choose a ship for us based on the quality of the accommodations and price, without having to consider what – if anything – the ship offered for guided tours in English.
Romani does still guide a few tours himself, but with multiple groups to manage, he relies on a group of licensed and highly skilled guides for most tours.
I highly recommend Romani. While his website is currently rather out-of-date, he really knows his country and how to make sure visitors have a great experience. In addition to general Egypt tours, he specializes in educational travel and tours that focus on Christianity in Egypt. Let him know what you are interested in and he’ll help you start planning your dream trip to Egypt!
Disclaimer: While Romani is a friend, he’s also an Egyptian businessman. That means he gave me a small discount on my tour as a friend, but only a small one. And he doesn’t have an affiliate program, so I don’t make any money if you use my link to book a tour with him yourself. But if you do, let him know where you heard about him and tell him he should give me a bigger discount on my next trip!
Getting to and from your river cruise
By land, Luxor is 400 miles from Cairo, so you have to plan ahead to get there or, further still, to Aswan. I’ve taken the night train and I’ve flown. The night train turned out to be the key to an incredible trip, but that doesn’t mean I’d recommend it.
By air
The easiest and fastest way to travel between Cairo and Luxor or Aswan is by air.
Currently Egypt Air, Nile Air, and Air Cairo serve Luxor and Aswan directly from Cairo.
In 2019 I flew Egypt Air between Munich and Cairo, as well as from Luxor back to Cairo again. It’s a regular airline and seemed pretty comparable to major American and European airlines. The planes we were on were fairly new, clean, and in good shape. The only negative was that we paid for reserved seats on one flight, yet were seated in equal, but different seats. (They reimbursed the seat charge when I contacted them to complain.) Their flight schedule from Europe (Munich) to Cairo was by far the best I found and I would happily fly with them again.
Egypt Air is also a member of the Star Alliance, so United Mileage Plus members can earn miles on their flight.
We flew Nile Air from Cairo to Aswan because the Egypt Air flights we needed were not available. Nile Air has old, kind of scary planes. Although the crew was great, I do not recommend it.
By rail
The traditional way for travelers to get from Cairo to Luxor is via the overnight tourist sleeper train. This was far from a luxurious way to travel when I took it in 2007. By all reports it hasn’t improved. And the cost is the same or more than flying, unless you choose to sit in the first-class cabin all night.
Tickets for the overnight tourist train (the “deluxe” sleeper train) can only be purchased at the rail station and only in US dollars or Euros. Sleeping cabins include an airplane-style meal and simple breakfast. All beverages, including coffee and tea, cost extra.
Daytime trains with the first-class cars are said to be reasonably modern and comfortable. And inexpensive.
However, tourists cannot buy a ticket for a daytime train at the Cairo station. Various folks report buying tickets online and using them without a problem. Others have had local Egyptian contacts by tickets for them without any issues. If you are on a tight budget, it’s worth checking into. The best information I’ve found is from The Man in Seat 61, but I’m not sure how up to date it is. You can look on the Trip Advisor and Lonely Planet forums as well, but a lot of what shows up there is really old and not always accurate. Keep in mind that whatever was true even a year or two ago may not be true today.
By bus
It’s not exactly clear to me what the bus options are. Once upon a time the only way for a tourist to take a bus from Cairo to Luxor was to travel from Cairo to Hurghada (on the coast of the Red Sea) and then over to Luxor. That is a lot of hours of extra travel over what appears to be a lot of empty desert. I took the evening bus from Luxor to Hurghada in 2007 and that was long enough.
However, it may be possible to take the Go Bus directly from Cairo to Luxor. They claim a 6-hour travel time, although that seems optimistic. I haven’t tried this, nor has anyone I know, so don’t count on it without a lot of research or some first-hand knowledge.
Tourists are not allowed on (and probably wouldn’t want to take) the regular Egyptian bus.
Getting to Abu Simbel
If you book an optional excursion to Abu Simbel through the cruise or tour company, you probably won’t have a choice in whether you fly or travel by land. However, if you do have a choice, I recommend flying at least one way.
While more expensive than traveling overland, flying is much faster, probably provides great views of the Nile, and saves you from a long drive through a desert that even I (an avowed lover of deserts) found tedious when we weren’t traveling amid a caravan of trucks hauling camels from Sudan to the camel market in Daraw.
If you do like deserts and want to see a bit of this one, then fly one way and travel overland the other.
But, no matter how fond you are of deserts, there’s really not a lot to see along the road between Aswan and Abu Simbel.
By the way, tourists used to be required to travel this route in a caravan. That was no longer the case in 2019, although that requirement could reappear if security concerns arise.
Photographing Egyptian sights
Many people take a Nile cruise mostly to see elaborate temples and the tombs hidden in the hills near Luxor. While you are free to photograph ancient sites from the outside, there are a few things would-be photographers need to keep in mind.
The good news is that most spots that once prohibited photography now allow it. Although they usually charge photographers additional fees.
The following provides some general guidance. For more detailed information, Third Eye Traveller has a ton of detailed information on photographing major sights all over Egypt.
Note that, while I despise “travel” websites filled with pictures of the traveler in front of every sight, Third Eye Traveller has good information on photography in Egypt. The post itself is undated, but prices and observations reflect my experience in late winter 2019.
Be a responsible photographer everywhere
Wherever you go, recognize that you are highly unlikely to be the only one there. Nor are you likely to be the only one who really wants a good shot.
While that’s true of all of Egypt’s major tourist sights, it’s particularly true of those featured on Nile cruise itineraries. For whatever reason, almost every cruise will stop at the same sites at the same time.
- If you are on a cruise, you will be there with hundreds, if not thousands of other people.
- If you are not visiting as part of a cruise, find out when the cruise ships stop and plan your visit for some other time.
Obviously, do not sit, stand, climb, or walk where you don’t belong. This should be obvious, but do not scratch or otherwise deface the site you are visiting. Carving your initials in a temple wall proves you should never be allowed out of your house ever again. Egypt’s ancient and historic sites are open air museums and should be treated as the valuable and fragile relics they are. Defacing or otherwise damaging them can bring both a large fine and prison time. And, even if the Egyptian police don’t catch you, the internet usually will.
Don’t be rude! Everyone else has as much right to be there as you do. It’s your problem, not theirs, if people are in your way. Be patient. On the other hand, you have as much right to get your shot as they do. But it all works best if you are patient and polite — be aware of what those around you are trying to photograph and stay out of their way as much as possible. Many will return the favor.
Photography inside museums, temples, and tombs
Most websites and tour guides will tell you photography is not allowed in museums (including the Egyptian museum), many temples, or any of the tombs. That used to be true, but not anymore.
In 2019 photography was permitted in ALMOST every museum, temple, and tomb – as long as you purchase the appropriate pass before entering. The exceptions are the tombs of King Tut and Queen Nefertari and the Egyptian Museum’s King Tut display and Royal Mummy Room. Photography is strictly prohibited in all four of those locations.
Exactly what is allowed varies between sites and the rules can change any time. However, in general you can expect the following to apply now:
- While you can photograph inside most temples as part of your regular admission fee, a separate photography pass is required (and strictly enforced) inside Abu Simbel.
- Tripods are allowed in most temples, but a separate fee is required.
- Cell phone photography is allowed inside most tombs in the Valley of the Kings. However, a separate pass is required to photograph with a camera. It is only good for three tombs.
- Tripods and selfie-sticks are prohibited in all tombs.
- If a special ticket is required either to take photos and/or to use a tripod, keep that ticket handy. You will need to show it to the guards at least once – and usually several times.
The cost of a photography or tripod pass varies with the site, but they are a relatively expensive add-on.
Not every tour will let you get a photography pass
While photography is generally allowed if you are willing to pay for the privilege, many tour companies and guides don’t want to deal with this. That’s especially true for large group tours. And, honestly, this would be a real pain to sort out for a big group. But often, instead of simply telling you they aren’t going to give you the option of buying a pass, they just say photography is prohibited. (Yes, they lie.) There’s nothing you can do about it, but I thought you should know.
If it is important to take photos inside temples and tombs, a group tour probably isn’t a good option for you. Instead, travel independently (with or without a guide) or in a small group with an accommodating guide.
What a great review. It was very useful for me, a novice traveler, to read your blog. Now it will be easier for me on my trip to Egypt. I’m glad I found your blog. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it, Tori. Egypt is an amazing place.
Egypt is still on my list of places to visit. We planned to take a 2-3 days trip to see the pyramids when we visited Israel, but it seemed cheaper to travel directly to Egypt from the US than from Israel. Now that I read about your Nile cruise, I’m glad we didn’t settle for just 2-3 days in Egypt. It seems you were pretty happy with the MS Concerto, so we’ll probably use them too if we go. It’s good to know that you can now photograph sites that were prohibited before.
Anda, the pyramids are really less interesting than a lot of the ancient and historic sites. Even if you only went to Luxor, you’d be pleased with what you see. The cruise is an easy way to move between the cities and see the landscape – you’ll enjoy it. If you can arrange extra time in Cairo, I think you would also find Manial Palace and the Gayer-Anderson house museum very interesting — not ancient history, but very beautiful and evocative.
Cindy, you have certainly covered all of the bases with this detailed article on finding the right cruise in Egypt. We have never explored this part of the world, but you certainly provide plenty of well-documented reasons to go. Your photos help tell the story and add an extra layer of information.
Thank you! I suspect you have a long list of places you’d like to see – just trying to make that list a little longer!
Wow, you really cover all the bases here! I did take a cruise along the Nile a while back, and if I were to do it over again I would definitely choose an all-inclusive tour that lets me see as much as possible. I doubt many people get back this way again. I certainly don’t expect to. So I’m glad that I was able to see everything important when I was there. However, I did enjoy revisiting with you through your post!
Happy to provide a chance to revisit this amazing part of the world.
It’s been a lonnnnng time since I visited Egypt, and the Nile cruise that I was on as part of our adventure itinerary was pretty ‘rustic’. It was fun at the time sleeping up on the deck for the few nights aboard (too hot in the interior cabin), but next time I’d like a more ‘grownup’ option! Thanks for laying them all out here.
Wow! You must have great stories to tell from that trip. With air conditioning and a splash pool, you’d find a Nile cruise a very relaxing way to travel! And, if you haven’t been there in a long time, you’ll be surprised by how much excavation and restoration work has been done – even in the decade since my first visit, there are more sites and more areas within many sites open now. And many of the museums are state-of-the-art – not at all what you would remember from the Egyptian Museum, which hasn’t changed yet, but will largely move soon.
Cindy, I am taking a Viking cruise on the Nile in April. Is it possible for me to buy the photo pass on my own, even though the cruise tour does not provide that option?
Roy, I did a little searching to see if you could buy a photo pass in advance, but it doesn’t look like you can. You CAN buy a pass for all the Luxor tombs and temples (including the photo pass) in advance, but that’s a fairly spendy proposition – especially when everything else is included in your tour! (Most hotels will get it for you, but I think you need a couple of passport photos to buy the whole package.)
Your best bet is to tell your guide at the very start of your tour that you want a photo pass and ask how you can make that happen. If they have to pick up tickets for the group, convince them to let you tag along and buy your photo pass while they pick up the tickets. If they already have the tickets (or just aren’t helpful), you might have to go over to the ticket booth for the Valley of the Kings on your own to buy the pass. You can take a taxi over pretty easily. (I don’t think you can buy it at the ticket both right in Luxor.) Check with your hotel to confirm when the ticket office is open before you head over and have them arrange the taxi for you.
Good luck!