If you think the only reason to drive New Zealand’s Milford Road is to get to your Milford Sound cruise, I have a surprise for you. The Milford Road is one of the world’s great drives and a worthy destination in and of itself.
Combine this amazing road trip with a cruise for an unforgettable experience.
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Drive the Milford Road for adventure and spectacular scenery
Ask someone about Milford Sound, and they will probably talk about their Milford Sound cruise. After all, it’s the best-known feature of New Zealand’s vast Fiordland National Park.
Too many people focus on getting to their cruise without giving much thought to what awaits along the way.
That is a mistake.
While the cruise is gorgeous, a Milford Sound road trip is every bit as spectacular. But it’s also packed with opportunities for adventure. And, unlike the cruise, you could spend days exploring along the way. In the end, the drive to Milford Sound might end up being the best part of your trip!
What is the Milford Road?
The Milford Road is a 75-mile segment of New Zealand State Highway 94. It begins in the town of Te Anau (in the southwest of the South Island) and ends at Milford Sound (near the north end of Fiordland National Park).
Along the way it passes through some of New Zealand’s most spectacular scenery.
The entire route is paved. However, the road tends to be narrow and curvy, with few pull-outs and lots of summer traffic. About half the route runs through a river valley, however, it also crosses over the mountains. Not surprisingly, the mountainous segment has sharp curves, steep grades, sheer drop-offs, and distractingly beautiful scenery. It’s one of the world’s great drives.
(It’s a great drive, but novice or nervous drivers should opt for a tour.)
There really aren’t services (including cell phone service) along the way either, and services at the Sound itself are limited. Drivers need to be well-prepared before they leave.
While the road can be a challenge to drive, it offers easy access to amazing scenery in an otherwise remote part of New Zealand.
Allow at least two hours driving time to get from Te Anau to Milford Sound. That’s just driving time. Add plenty more for stops along the way.
Highlights along the road between Te Anau to Milford Sound
Even if you aren’t a hiker, you’ll want plenty of time to enjoy the incredible scenery between Te Anau and Milford Sound. The route generally follows the Eglinton River valley before turning into and passing over the mountains and finally dropping down to Milford Sound.
We spent less than two full days on the road to Milford Sound during our November 2017 tour of New Zealand. That’s more than most foreign visitors touring New Zealand, but, as you’ll soon see, it wasn’t nearly long enough.
With all the opportunities to get out of the car and explore along the way, it’s best to allow at least a full day to take a cruise, making lots of short stops along the way. Consider it your Milford Road scouting expedition. Return the next day to really explore a few spots you had to skip (or visit too quickly) the day before. Better yet, spend a night or two along the way (plan ahead for this) or at Milford Sound itself. I promise you won’t regret adding extra time here!
Of course, serious hikers will want even more time. A lot more time.
Lake Te Anau
Lake Te Anau is New Zealand’s second largest by surface area. But it’s the country’s largest freshwater lake by volume, as it reaches a depth of more than 1300 feet. It’s so deep that half of it actually lies below sea level.
The main town in this area is also called Te Anau. It’s located near the south end of the lake and serves as the area’s main tourist center.
Te Anau isn’t a big place. It’s a pleasant little town with lots of restaurants, recreational opportunities, and a view of the lake from almost everywhere. As the only town in the area, it’s a great base for exploring Fiordland National Park. By staying in Te Anau for a few days, we explored nearby sights and had time to visit both Milford and Doubtful Sound.
Te Anau is also where State Highway 94 becomes the Milford Road. That means your Milford Sound road trip officially begins right here.
From Te Anau, the first part of the Milford Road provides enticing views of this beautiful lake.
Lake Mistletoe
With heavy rain imminent when we were exploring this end of the Milford Road, we didn’t get to visit little glacial Lake Mistletoe. However, it’s said to be a pleasant hike to a very pretty lake.
Te Anau Downs
Te Anau Downs is the other settlement along the lake. But don’t look for anything resembling a town. There’s a dock and a couple of farms. That’s about all.
Most visitors stop here simply to catch the ferry for the multi-day Milford Track hike. However, if you’ve been hurrying along during your time in New Zealand, this is a nice spot to slow down and take a closer look at the scenery you’ve been driving by.
It’s a lovely spot, with the Murchison Mountains in the distance behind the lake and sheep-speckled meadows rolling away to the north.
It’s classic New Zealand.
At this point the road turns away from the lake to follow the Eglinton River.
Eglinton Valley
The Eglinton River winds through a broad glacial valley beneath steep mountains. It’s beautiful in any season, but in spring the entire valley is filled with purple and pink lupines. (Or lupins, as the Kiwis call them.)
Several pull-outs provide access to the valley and river. Each offers different views of the surrounding mountains. Access to the water and flowers varies as well, so take time to find your favorite combination of water, mountains, flowers, and wildlife.
The lupines are absolutely beautiful in spring. Unfortunately, they are highly invasive weeds that obliterated the native vegetation that once filled this valley.
Mirror Lakes
Also in the Eglinton Valley, Mirror Lakes is a small spot that provides dramatic views throughout the year.
Every bus tour to Milford Sound stops here, so it might be tempting to skip Mirror Lakes if there are big tour buses parked everywhere.
Bus tours only allow enough time to quickly walk through the small site and take a few selfies. If you are traveling independently, you can wait a bit and enjoy the area in relative peace between tour groups.
Not that you are never likely to be here alone, but it’s worth the crowds to take in the view from here. That’s especially true on a still day when the Mirror Lakes provide striking reflections of the Earl Mountains across the valley.
The lakes are viewed from a raised walkway. While that limits your options for exploring the area (there are no other paths), it also ensures no one will be blocking your view no matter how crowded it is!
To get the full mirror effect, come early in the morning when the wind is more likely to be calm. An early arrival also reduces the number of other people visiting while you are there.
Knobs Flat
Toward the northern end of the Eglington Valley, Knobs Flat offers a rest stop on the way to and from Milford Sound. It offers basic services and a few amenities, including flush toilets. There is also a guesthouse and campground.
A few paths also let visitors get a close-up view of the area’s scenery.
We took time to read at the display panels near the road. They provide information on the valley’s wildlife and the impact of avalanches along Milford Road.
Lake Gunn
What’s said to be an easy loop trail through a red beech forest leads to Lake Gunn. We stopped before this point the first day due to a downpour and darkness. Then we ran out of time the next day on our return from Milford Sound. I was sorry to miss what appears to be an easy walk to a lovely lake.
The Divide
The Divide, with an elevation just over 1,700 feet is the lowest east-west pass in the Southern Alps.
Don’t let that description fool you. This is some of the most spectacular high mountain scenery you’ll find along any road anywhere in the world.
The multi-day Routeburn, Caples, and Greenstone tracks all start here. That means there are toilets and a parking area. There isn’t always space to park, but if there is, get out and walk around at least a bit. Once you are out of your car, you’ll really understand how big this landscape is. It’s both exhilarating and humbling.
The Key Summit Track
If you can set aside a half day or more for a hike, the relatively short, but steep, Key Summit Track sounds like the one to choose. From the parking area at the Divide, this hike winds through forest and alpine meadows.
It starts on the Routeburn Track before detouring to climb higher. The full hike (up and back down) appears to be no more than 4 ½ miles roundtrip. (The NZ parks website says 4 ½ miles roundtrip, most other hiking sites say less. Everyone seems to agree that most hikers can do it in about 3 hours.) Pictures from the trail show sweeping views of alpine lakes, lush valleys, and the surrounding mountains. We didn’t have time to attempt this hike, but I would try it if we ever get back because this area is so beautiful.
Hollyford Valley Lookout (Pop’s View)
Spectacular views into the Hollyford Valley are available near the side of the road (follow the walkway for the best view), but good luck finding a place to park at this popular overlook!
Hollyford Road
I gave the turn-off for Hollyford Road a long look as we drove by, but even with a day and a half to explore along Milford Road, there wasn’t enough time to stop everywhere. But next time. . . . .
Follow Hollyford Road to reach the following:
Lake Marian trail: A half-day hike through the Marian Valley to an alpine lake in a hanging valley.
Gunns Camp: Basic accommodations in a former road workers’ camp.
Humboldt Falls trail: A half-hour hike that provides a view of Humboldt Falls
Hollyford Track: A 35-mile (one way) hiking trail through the valley. It ends along the coast at where hikers can turn around and make the return trip or fly out.
Hidden Falls: Follow the Hollyford Track as far as Hidden Falls for a day hike.
There are also a couple of air strips located back here. Google maps shows one right along the Hollyford Road, but it seems there is also one right at Martins Bay.
Monkey Creek
Noted for water pure enough to drink, Monkey Creek is surrounded by impressive mountain scenery. This is also a good spot to look for blue ducks, alpine parrots, and kea. There is a pull-off, but many tours also stop here.
Homer Tunnel
Ordinarily a three-quarters of a mile tunnel isn’t going to be a tourist highlight. But Homer Tunnel is a bit of an exception.
Technically a two-lane tunnel, it isn’t wide enough for two large buses to meet, so during the summer peak traffic is reduced to one-way at a time and regulated by a traffic light.
Of course, you can’t stop in the tunnel itself, but in summer you can stop in a pull-off before entering. And you should stop, because the scenery is stunning. (Just don’t hang out here in winter or early spring, since part of the tunnel is in an avalanche zone.) The eastern end of the tunnel is actually the highest point on the Milford Road, and there are towering cliffs and waterfalls at both ends.
But give some thought to the tunnel itself too. Tunneling through solid rock in an avalanche zone 3,100 feet above sea level was quite a feat!
Work began on the Homer Tunnel in 1935 with five men wielding picks, shovels, and wheelbarrows. Water, avalanches, labor shortages, and World War II delayed completion of the tunnel until 1953.
For a detailed account of the making and maintaining of the Milford Road and Homer Tunnel, check New Zealand Geographic’s story The Hard Road.
The Chasm
The Chasm offers two very different experiences along one easy trail.
First, wander through a temperate rain forest. Take your time and try to spot a few of the many the birds you hear. If you look closely, you might see a kereru (New Zealand pigeon) like we did.
Then you begin to see (and hear) the rushing water of the Cleddau River.
A series of walkways and bridges take you to and over the river. That makes it easy to see the water’s power in the deeply carved rock even when you can’t see the river. But even when you can’t see the river, you can always hear it as it falls over ledges, plunges into crevasses, rushes through underground passages, and swirls at the bottom of pools carved deep into the rock before rushing away through a rocky stream bed.
Most tours stop at the Chasm, so don’t be surprised to find large groups along the trail. Since they are on a tight schedule, slow down a bit and soon they’ll soon be gone.
Tutoko Swing Bridge
Built in 1940, the Tutoko Suspension Bridge is the last steel suspension bridge on the Milford Road. It carried vehicles until 1984 when a new bridge opened. Today the original suspension bridge provides a pedestrian-only crossing with great views of the Tutoko River below and the mountains beyond.
On the water in Milford Sound
Of course, your Milford Sound road trip ends once you reach the end of Milford Road. But that just means it’s time to get out on the water to see a bit more! (After all, this is the reason most people drive Milford Road in the first place.)
The Sound itself is at least as beautiful as any other sight along the way. You can see that right from shore.
However, the best way to explore Milford Sound is from the water.
Cruising Milford Sound
Most visitors come to this remote area of New Zealand specifically to cruise Milford Sound (Piopiotahi). And it is a lovely, if rather short, cruise. (The Tasman Sea is only 10 miles from where your cruise begins, but it is 10 miles of non-stop beauty.)
No matter which cruise you choose (and there are dozens to choose from), you can expect a tour that includes a fairly standard set of sights. The order you visit them may vary depending on the number of other boats out when you visit.
The following gives you a taste of what to expect.
Mitre Peak
Milford Sound’s iconic landmark and is easy to view from shore.
Not one, but a group of five peaks, Mitre Peak rises a mile above the sea floor.
Waterfalls
How many waterfalls you see will depend on the weather when you visit. I cruised Milford Sound on a gorgeous spring day, so Lady Bowen and Stirling Falls were the only ones flowing. On a rainy day, visitors will see many, many more – some of which will be substantial.
If you like waterfalls, try to plan your cruise for a rainy day!
Lady Bowen Falls
Like Mitre Peak, Lady Bowen Falls is visible from shore. It’s also one of only two permanent waterfalls in Milford Sound. That means you’ll be able to watch as water plunges 530 feet from the top of the falls to the sound below.
Lady Bowen Falls is named for Diamantina di Roma, a politically-connected aristocrat from what is now the Greek Ionian Islands. (The islands, which include Corfu, were a British protectorate in the first half of the 19th century. Diamantina’s family was descended from Venetians who once ruled the islands.) Her marriage to Sir George Bowen, brought her to New Zealand as the wife of Queensland’s first governor. Bowen went on to become the governor of all New Zealand, followed by stints as the governor of Victoria (Australia), Mauritius, and Hong Kong.
Despite its beauty, Lady Bowen Falls is a working waterfall that provides electricity for development at Milford Sound.
No matter what cruise you book, you’ll likely have the opportunity to get up close and personal with a waterfall. In wet weather it might be one of several temporary waterfalls, but on a sunny day, it will be Stirling Falls (Wai Manu).
Stirling Falls is almost as high as Lady Bowen, with a drop of just over 500 feet.
Apparently, the falls takes its name from Captain Frederick Henry Stirling, who is said to have discovered and named it for himself. The Maori name, Wai Manu, is a lot more descriptive, as it means “cloud on the water.”
As the only other permanent waterfall in the fjord, this is where most cruisers get their on-board shower!
It’s a little wet on deck for photography, but you can always view the action from inside too.
Wildlife
Milford Sound is home to bottle nose and dusky dolphins, little blue and Fiordland crested penguins, and New Zealand fur seals.
Visitors are almost guaranteed a fur seal sighting, as they are almost always easy to spot on Seal Rock.
Dolphins are more elusive, but many bottlenose dolphins live in the area. They often ride the waves created by cruise ships. I saw a couple, but they are quick and hard to photograph!
It’s even harder to spot, let alone photograph, penguins. They are fast swimmers and generally spend the day at sea.
However, we were lucky to see a few Fiordland crested penguins in the water.
This highly endangered species is only found here and one other place in New Zealand, making them very rare. It’s hard to tell from this picture, but they are also very beautiful, with pale yellow feathers above their eyes.
While they are hard to photograph in the water, they are fun to watch as they surface for a few moments before diving again. They are fast and graceful in the water.
Dramatic cliffs and rocky shores
Even if you don’t see a lot of wildlife, the scenery is lovely.
When the weather is dry, you may not have a lot of waterfalls. However, on reasonably clear days the mountains themselves provide plenty of dramatic scenery.
Much nearer, the shoreline offers an ever-changing mix of rock, vegetation, and tidal sea life.
Out to the Tasman Sea
Beyond the fjord, the Tasman Sea is generally too rough for cruise passengers. Cruises usually only go out to Anita Bay.
This still provides a nice view of Dale Point, which hides the entrance to the fjord.
The entrance is so well obscured that early explorers passed by without realizing there was a fjord hiding back there!
Farther out, the small lighthouse on Saint Anne’s Point marks the fjord’s entrance from the sea.
Most cruises don’t go out this far because the Tasman Sea is usually pretty rough. We happened to visit on a very still day. It was so still we cruised all the way out of the fjord on one side, crossed the fjord’s mouth in the open sea, then re-entered on the other side. The captain seemed so delighted to do this that I believe he was telling the truth when he said this doesn’t happen very often!
Milford Discovery Centre and Underwater Observatory
Harrison’s cove is popular with kayakers because it is sheltered. But the cove is also home to the Milford Discovery Centre and Underwater Observatory.
Not all cruise companies stop here. (It seems to be connected to Southern Discoveries, although some others use it too.) I wanted to visit it because rare black coral (usually a very deep-water species) grows here. Since I don’t dive, this seemed like a good opportunity to see things usually visible only to divers – including this unusual coral.
I did get to see black coral (which is white with black “stems”), but just small ones. Far, far below the surface these become 30-foot trees. (Wouldn’t THAT be cool to see?!)
Although it was fun to see the coral and some fish, there wasn’t a lot to see the day we visited. That means it didn’t take long for me to wish I were back outside enjoying the beautiful scenery! But on a day with better water clarity and more interesting fish, it would be a more interesting stop.
The educational displays on the main floor are very well done, making this a good short stop for everyone. Most people just don’t need a lot of time here.
About Milford Sound
Located in the rugged landscape of southwestern New Zealand’s South Island, Milford Sound has is a must-stop destination on most New Zealand vacation itineraries. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations.
The geology of Milford Sound
To begin, Milford Sound isn’t a sound. It’s a fjord, just like the ones in Norway. And, although the Kiwis spell it “fiord,” the fjords of southwestern New Zealand are what gave Fiordland National Park its name.
Almost all of New Zealand’s fjords are called “sounds,” but true sounds are large sea inlets that usually separate the coast from an island. In contrast, Milford’s deep, narrow valley filled with seawater is the very definition of a fjord.
And, like Norway’s fjords, New Zealand’s fiords are the result of a couple million years of glacial activity.
Milford’s steep walls are largely solid bedrock uplifted by geologic forces over several hundred million years. Thus, geologically speaking, the glaciers that carved and shaped this valley arrived only relatively recently.
All 15 of New Zealand’s named coastal fjords are found in the southwest of the South Island. (Milford is the most northerly.) It is also the only one accessible by automobile.
New Zealand also has freshwater fjords where lakes have filled glacial valleys. These include several arms of both Lake Te Anau and Manapouri in Fjordlands National Park. Queenstown’s Lake Wakatipu is another one.
Milford Sound’s human history
While Europeans were slow to discover Milford Sound, the Maori have known about Piopiotahi much, much longer.
Known as Piopiotahi by the Maori, Milford Sound was a special place for the Maori. Likely discovered more than a 1,000 years ago, the fjord was named for a now extinct thrush believed to have come here to mourn the death of the great hero Maui.
Like all New Zealand fjords, Milford was a valued source of seafood and greenstone. However, the greenstone (pounamu) here was unusual and held both great spiritual and commercial value. That likely made Piopiotahi a well-known site for the Maori.
European discovery and settlement
Europeans, on the other hand, were slow to discover Milford Sound.
Because Dale Point obscures the fjord, ship captains, including James Cook, assumed it was a bay fed by a small river. As such, it wasn’t worth the risk of sailing too close and getting stranded near the cliffs or sending a rowboat with an exploratory team to take a closer look.
It wasn’t until about 1812 that Captain John Grono discovered Milford Sound while hunting fur seals. Because it was unknown to others, it made a great hunting ground. He named the fjord Milford Haven after his childhood home in Wales and seemed to keep its location a secret as long as possible.
It was renamed Milford Sound by Captain John Lort Stokes, who anchored there in 1851.
But Milford Sound wasn’t settled by Europeans until 1887. That’s when Scotsman Donald Sutherland arrived in New Zealand with his dogs. He settled close to Lady Bowen Falls and began to explore the area. A few years later he married and his wife joined him at his remote home.
The Sutherland Fall Expedition, Milford Sound, October 1888, 1888, Dunedin, by Burton Brothers studio, George Moodie. Purchased 1943. Te Papa (C.016260)
But by that time, the Mackinnon Pass (once used by the Maori) had been discovered by Europeans. As part of what is now called the Milford Track, it provided access to the Sound.
And with that access, more visitors began to arrive. Among them was the Nobel Prize-winning writer Rudyard Kipling (author of The Jungle Book, among other publications), who identified Milford Sound as the “eighth wonder of the world.”
To serve the increasing number of visitors to the area, the Sutherlands built a hotel.
Travel to the area and development increased once again following the completion of the Homer Tunnel in 1954.
While a Milford Sound road trip is likely to be spectacular in any season, the largest number of visitors arrive at Milford Sound in summer. We visited just ahead of them, arriving in late spring when the invasive but beautiful lupines were blooming everywhere.
Our Milford Sound road trip was just a small part of a much longer New Zealand road trip around the South Island, but it was one of the highlights.
Where is Milford Sound?
Milford Sound is located along the southwest coast of New Zealand’s South Island. It’s at the northern end of Fiordland National Park.
Despite the number of tourists visiting each year, Milford Sound is in a remote location. There is no cell phone service along Milford Road or at the Sound itself. Nor are there other services like gas along the way, and only limited services are available once you reach Milford Sound itself.
Weather
Weather can change quickly in southwest New Zealand, so be prepared for cold, wet weather and snow in the mountains even in summer.
While summer highs at Milford Sound can climb into the 80s between December and February, that’s relatively unusual. Cool summers and winter temperatures below freezing are normal along the Sound itself. Expect colder weather in the mountains.
The MetService weather forecast provides the usual weather information, along with suggestions for how many layers of clothing you will need!
December and January are the rainiest months at Milford Sound. However, visitors should always plan for rain. With 21 FEET of rainfall in a normal year, Milford Sound is one of the wettest places in the world.
To cope with rainy weather, wear light weight clothing and dress in layers with a waterproof jacket. Leave your jeans and cotton sweatshirts at home, as they will quickly become damp and uncomfortable.
But don’t be disappointed by rain during a Milford Sound cruise. Rain brings scores of waterfalls, with every mountain hosting ribbons of falling water. Most of these vanish quickly once the rain is over.
And a day with a regularly changing mix of sun and rain is a photographer’s dream.
However, treat wet weather with caution when driving or hiking. Hikers need to be especially careful, because rain can bring dangerously flooded or muddy conditions. Heavy rain can also bring deadly rock slides.
Snow
Few things are as beautiful as a fresh snowfall. However, winter snow is a real concern along Milford Road, where snow and ice on the road can make driving hazardous. Even more dangerous, snow in the mountains above the road can lead to deadly avalanches. That’s why it’s important to take a good long look at road conditions before you start out. New Zealand works hard to manage avalanches, which means the road will close when avalanches threaten and during operations to control avalanches. But avalanches are always a concern in winter and drivers should heed warnings to keep moving and not stop in avalanche zones. More winter driving information is provided below.
Once you get to Milford Sound, snow is less of a concern. The fjord keeps temperatures warm enough that snow is generally restricted to higher elevations.
Options for traveling Milford Road
Although I highly recommend driving, the best way to get to Milford Sound will depend on where you are starting from, how comfortable you are behind the wheel, and how much time you have.
Most visitors don’t drive Milford Road on their own, so there are other options.
The most popular option is to book a bus or van tour that offers brief stops at the most popular sites along the Milford Road and a cruise on the Sound. Tours are available from either Te Anau or Queenstown, but Te Anau is a much better base because you see more with less time on the road.
For those who can afford it, a combination bus/flight package offers the best of all worlds with a bit of sightseeing along Milford Road, a cruise, and a scenic flight.
Self-drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound
Milford Road begins in Te Anau, making it a logical base for a Milford Sound road trip.
But Te Anau is also a great base for exploring Fiordlands National Park in general, as it is located between Milford and Doubtful sounds. It’s also a pleasant town with plenty to do right there. There are lots of restaurants and, in spring, the city park is filled with rhododendrons!
Staying in Te Anau made it easy to visit nearby sights along Milford Road as short trips. That left more time for sightseeing near Milford Sound on the day we drove all the way to the Sound. However, next time I would spend even more time here or add a night or two at Milford Sound itself to allow more time for exploring on foot.
(Of course, it would be easy for hikers and kayakers to spend days – or even weeks – exploring the area.)
Best of all, if you have your own car, the drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound is relatively straight-forward.
Once you are on Milford Road (Highway 94) there really isn’t anywhere else to go and sights along the way are generally well marked. On the other hand, there are few places to pull off the road once you get into the mountains and parking can be a challenge at some of the more popular stops. And driving in New Zealand offers its own challenges.
Driving in New Zealand
New Zealand isn’t a good place to learn how to drive. Inexperienced drivers should consider a tour or public transport. However, if you’re a reasonably experienced driver, New Zealand’s South Island is road trip heaven.
Traffic in New Zealand traffic moves on the left side of the road, British-style. And, as in Britain, drivers are seated on the right side of the vehicle. That means the driver will always be sitting next to the middle of the road. Just repeat over and over “driver in the middle, driver in the middle” and you’ll be fine.
(Repeat that mantra when you get back home too, so you don’t forget you’re no longer driving in New Zealand!)
If you are driving a camper van for the first time, take time to really get to know how your vehicle handles before heading to Milford Sound or anywhere else. And be extremely cautious on winding narrow roads – particularly when traveling in wind, rain, or snow.
While you may find the driving challenging, keep in mind that this is normal for others. If traffic backs up behind you, find a safe spot to pull over to let others by.
Expect more challenging roads than you are used to
What’s different is the general lack of investment in roads. Aside from a few significant routes and major roads in large cities, New Zealand’s roads generally do not meet the standards one would find in northern Europe or the United States. That can be good or bad, depending on your perspective. But it means you usually can’t choose between the scenic route and the fast route, as there is often only one route and it isn’t fast.
However, if you are reasonably comfortable driving on rural roads in the British Isles or Ireland, you won’t have any problem in New Zealand. Just allow a lot more time than you ordinarily would need to cover the same distance.
Navigation
Despite what you may read online, routes and travel time estimates on Google maps are actually pretty accurate. The travel time can be little optimistic, but usually not by too much.
On the other hand, there are lots of areas with limited or no cell phone coverage. Milford Sound is one of those areas, so make sure you have at least a basic printed map if you are relying on your phone to navigate.
Driving Milford Road
In good weather, driving to Milford Sound isn’t very different from driving elsewhere in New Zealand, but there are a few things to keep in mind.
Nearly half a million people visit Milford Sound each year, but those numbers obscure the fact that this is a remote, isolated area. Don’t assume services you may need will be available outside Te Anau.
Check the weather and road conditions before leaving Te Anau.
Fill your tank before you leave. There are no gas stations between Te Anau and Milford Sound.
There is no cell phone service along much of the Milford Road! Although there are card-phones at Knobs Flat and Milford Sound, you cannot use your cell phone to get information or call for help in an emergency.
The only restrooms along the route are at Te Anau, Knob’s Flat, and Milford Sound.
There is almost no food available until you reach Milford Sound, and options there are limited. Pack food and beverages for the day.
Find a safe place to leave your pet. Dogs are NOT allowed in Fiordland National Park.
The New Zealand Department of Conservation has a useful page on Milford Road tips for drivers with additional information on this route.
Leave adequate time for the drive
Even if you don’t stop along the way, it’s impossible to know exactly how long it will take to drive to Milford Sound. Beyond weather and road conditions, travel time can be impacted by the wait time at the Homer Tunnel and the number of tour buses on the road with you.
Plan at least 2½ hours driving time to reach Milford Sound. That’s if you are traveling in good weather without any stops and with minimal delay at the tunnel. Allow more if you are traveling in bad weather or during the summer peak.
Allow at least 20 minutes to check in for your cruise.
If you are traveling during a peak period, allow another 45 minutes to park your car and get to the visitor terminal to check in. (The remote parking lot has a shuttle system.)
Take your time while driving, but pull over and let others pass if you are holding up traffic.
If you want to enjoy the scenery, pull off the road in a designated parking area.
Check road conditions
Milford Road is paved. In good weather, it’s a decent, if sometimes narrow and twisting road. Most of the time the biggest danger you will face is being distracted by the scenery or coming in contact with another driver distracted by the scenery.
However, in less-than-ideal weather, this can be a treacherous route.
Visiting Milford Sound in winter
The sheer mountain peaks that make this drive spectacular also make it dangerous during winter (May through September in New Zealand). Not only are icy roads a possibility, but avalanches are common. Fortunately, a combination of short-term road closures and avalanche control practices make it possible to safely travel to Milford Sound in winter. But be prepared.
Also, if you are traveling between May and September, you are required to have snow chains in your vehicle. You can rent chains in Te Anau. But don’t just have them, make sure you know how to use them.
Weather can change quickly. The weather on your return trip could be very different from when you began the day.
Avoid the tour bus crush
Every Milford Sound bus tour makes pretty much the same stops on the same schedule. That is, buses leave in the morning to get visitors to the Sound for cruises that depart right after lunch.
You can avoid most tour groups by leaving Te Anau before 8 am and making a limited number of short stops before taking a morning cruise. Or leave after 11 am and plan for a late afternoon cruise with stops either along the way.
To make the most of your day with the fewest crowds, it’s best to leave early in the morning, take a morning cruise, and then enjoy a leisurely afternoon of sightseeing on the trip back to Te Anau.
New Zealand parks and recreation identifies the following as the schedule most often used by tour buses:
9-10 am: Depart Te Anau
10:30 am: Mirror Lakes
11:00 am: Knobs Flat (restroom break)
12:30 pm: The Chasm
1:00 pm: Milford cruise
Avoid this general schedule and you’ll have a more enjoyable drive, less crowded stops, and fewer delays.
Plan for a delay at Homer Tunnel
While technically two lanes, the road inside the tunnel is not wide enough for large buses to meet.
Usually this isn’t a problem, as bus traffic through the tunnel is highly directional. However, during the summer tourist season, traffic through the tunnel is controlled by traffic signals at each end. That allows traffic to move in only one direction at any given time. These lights can cause delays of 20 minutes at either end of the tunnel during busy times of day.
The tunnel is open to two-way traffic during the winter because it is too dangerous to allow cars to queue in the avalanche zone outside the tunnel’s entrance.
The tunnel is dark. Turn on your headlights and take off your sunglasses before you enter.
Parking at Milford Sound
The Milford Sound car park is only a ten-minute walk to the visitor terminal where you need to check in for your cruise. (Cruise check-in is required at least 20 minutes before your scheduled departure, so leave enough time.)
However, even though the car park is large, it can fill up during the busy periods. If that happens, you will park off the Deepwater Basin Road and take a free bus to the visitor terminal. This can take up to 45 minutes.
Parking is no longer free!
As of October 2019, there is a $10 PER HOUR charge to park in the main Milford Sound car parks. (The overflow lot is still free, but the shuttle seems to be available only when the other lots are full.) Payment is by credit card at a machine. There’s no entry gate, but a license plate recognition system is in place, so they’ll catch you if you don’t pay.
Since you need 3-4 hours for most cruises, this is a very hefty increase for road trippers! (Milford Sound Tourism is actively trying to increase revenues from international tourists and control when and how tourists visit. See the RNZ News and the Newsroom for samples of the sometimes bizarre discussion.)
Driving Milford Road isn’t for everyone
I’m always up for a road trip. I love narrow, twisting roads through spectacular mountain, but I know that’s not everyone’s ideal vacation.
Fortunately, there are many options available if you want to concentrate on the scenery rather than the road. Viator lists a couple dozen tours of all types, but there are many, many more available. The following sections provide guidance for choosing what’s best for you.
Tours from Te Anau to Milford Sound
If you don’t have access to a car, don’t drive, or simply don’t feel comfortable driving on a New Zealand road (or fear heights), consider booking a Milford Sound tour from Te Anau.
A Milford Sound day trip from Te Anau offers the same scenery whether you do a self-drive road trip or book a bus tour. Tour length and stops vary somewhat depending on the company you choose, but all tours (but not all buses) stop at a selection of highlights along the route, including Mirror Lakes.
Many companies, including the cruise companies, offer van and bus tours from Te Anau to Milford Sound. Some function mostly as shuttles with a few photo stops and a little or no commentary. Others are true tours with a variety of stops, activities, and informative guides. A number also offer specialized small group tours focused on hiking, kayaking, birdwatching, or other activities.
Most tours leave in the morning and return by late afternoon or early evening. Shuttle buses tend to run a little more often than tour buses.
Note that some tours from Te Anau actually begin in Queenstown. These tend to leave Te Anau later in the morning and offer less time and fewer stops along the way to/from Milford Sound. They are NOT a good value if you are already in Te Anau. Instead look for a tour that begins early and gives you a full day along Milford Road and at the Sound.
If you want to travel a bit more independently, it appears that InterCity Bus and TrackNet offer regular service between Te Anu and Milford Sound. These buses won’t offer scenic stops along the way, but they will get you from one point to another at minimal cost. Of course, both also offer more expensive Milford Sound tours as well.
Fly to Milford Sound
Those pressed for time or just looking for a different perspective maybe able to fly to Milford Sound. Several services will fly visitors to the Milford Sound airport from Te Anau. It’s not cheap, but if you are pressed for time and/or want to see the area from above, this is an option.
At least one company offers Milford Sound coach, cruise, and fly tours from Te Anau. (Most are out of Queenstown.)
Be aware that flights are highly weather dependent. If the weather isn’t suitable for flying, you’ll end up on the bus.
Traveling from Queenstown
The driving distance from Queenstown to Te Anau is just over 100 miles. (There isn’t a direct route, so you make a bit of a loop to travel between the two.) The route takes a little over two hours to drive, but it’s an easy drive without must-stop sights to slow you down.
Even if you don’t want to drive the Milford Road yourself, consider spending a night or two in Te Anau, and taking the bus from there to get to Milford Sound. Unless you fly to or from Milford Sound, taking two days to visit Milford Sound will be a much better experience than traveling directly from Queenstown.
As far as I’m concerned, the distance between Queenstown and Milford Sound is too far for a day trip. A lot of people do it, but I don’t recommend it.
Queenstown to Te Anau bus
Regularly scheduled bus service is available between Queenstown and Te Anau through InterCity and Tracknet. Both offer service to Te Anau and to Milford Sound. Either is a reasonable way to get to Te Anau. From there you can head on to Milford Sound. But do it over at least two days.
Keep in mind that, once you reach Te Anau, you have all the options identified above for actually getting to Milford Sound. That includes using buses provided by the cruise companies, as well as regular route buses, and tour buses (usually identified as coaches, rather than buses, in New Zealand.)
Milford Sound tours from Queenstown
Many companies offer a Milford Sound day trip from Queenstown. However, the tour, cruise, and return to Queenstown take about 15 hours. That’s a lot of time in a bus for a few quick photo stops and a 90-minute cruise.
If you are pressed for time and money isn’t a concern, consider a Queenstown to Milford Sound flight.
Several companies offer packages that let you fly to Milford Sound, take a cruise, and then fly back to Queensland. Others combine a flight with a bus tour and cruise. This is a particularly good arrangement because you save a lot of time, get to see Fiordlands from the air, and still get to see the spectacular scenery along Milford Road.
Needless to say, none of these flight options are cheap and all are highly weather-dependent.
Traveling from Christchurch
It’s not possible to visit Milford Sound from Christchurch as a day trip except (maybe) by air. And even flying requires a stop in Te Anau, making a day trip possible, but complicated and expensive.
Christchurch, the largest city on New Zealand’s South Island, is at least an eight-hour drive from Te Anau. Fortunately, there are options for spending a night along the way.
There are two routes to Te Anau: An inland route and a coastal route. We took several days to drive the very scenic coastal route. Of course, the inland route, which goes over a couple of mountain passes, is also supposed to be spectacular. For road trippers with plenty of time, either route seems to be a good option.
Bus tours from Christchurch to Milford Sound take at least three days, usually with a stop for Mount Cook (Aoraki) and one or more nights in Queenstown.
For those with limited time, Air New Zealand operates several regular non-stop flights connecting Christchurch with Te Anau. Based on my experience with Air New Zealand (where short flights in beautiful weather were very, very late), this would be a challenging day trip.
Once you arrive at Milford Sound
Obviously, if you’ve gone all the way to Milford Sound, you should take a cruise while you are there. But that’s just one of the things to do in Milford Sound.
Instead of just taking a cruise and leaving right away, spend some time exploring the area around the fjord on foot, in a small boat, or from the air. Spending most of a day, or even staying overnight, offers a chance to experience Milford Sound in a way few visitors do.
Get out on the water
While the drive along Milford Road is impressive enough to be worth a trip in and of itself, you might as well get out on the water once you reach the end of the road!
Most visitors do that on a cruise. Almost all cruises are on similar ships of varying sizes, but few are small. Unless you have a special interest in geology or wildlife, you’ll probably be on one of these larger ships. And that will be fine. Any of them will show you the Sound’s highlights.
The difference between cruises will be in how long you are on the water, the number of people on board, how full the ship is, amenities like food and beverages, indoor vs outdoor deck space, and the quality of the naturalist/guide.
Cruises run year-round.
For those looking for a more intimate encounter with the water, kayaking and diving are also options.
Choosing the best Milford Sound cruise
Our cruise went up the south side and back down the north side. That seemed at least partly determined by the number of boats already at Stirling Falls and Seal Rock. Both of these popular spots can get crowded, and it appeared that the captain adjusted our schedule so we would arrive when fewer other boats were there. But, in general, every Milford Sound boat tour will cover the same sites – after all, it’s a small fjord. There are only so many places to go!
All cruises offer the following:
A mix of enclosed space and space on deck
Restrooms
At least minimal food and beverages for purchase on board
A dip under a waterfall (which waterfall will depend on how many are flowing)
Wildlife watching (mostly fur seals)
Still, there are differences between the cruises offered. Determining which is the best Milford Sound cruise depends largely on what is most important to you.
Unless you choose a boutique offering, the differences between most of the cruises are pretty subtle.
Things to ask before booking a cruise:
How long is the cruise? (Day cruises generally run between 1 ½ and 2 ¼ hours.)
When and how often do cruises depart?
How many people does the ship hold? Do they cap capacity below that level to give visitors more space to move around or will they fill it to the maximum if they can?
How much passenger space is indoors vs outdoors? (It rains a lot here and it can be very cold out on the water. On the other hand, if it is a gorgeous day you will want to be out on deck for at least part of the cruise.)
Are they targeting large tour groups? (It’s not a lot of fun to be the only independent traveler on a boat filled with tour groups)
Do they stop at the underwater viewing station? (It’s a good educational stop, but not of enough interest for everyone and requires a lot of stairs.) If they do stop, how long will you be there?
Read reviews to get a feel for how full the boat usually is, whether there are likely to be large tour groups, and what the experience is likely to be like. Contact the cruise company directly with specific questions.
A brief Milford Sound Cruise comparison
We sailed with Southern Discoveries, but I did a fair amount of research before booking.
In general, “nature” or “premium” cruise run around 2 hours (some a little more, some a little less) and most currently cost $90-$100 NZD. (The exception is Go Orange, which offers a 2-hour cruise for under $60.) “Scenic” cruises are usually 90 minutes and start at $55.
Very few indicate on their website how many other people will be with you on your cruise. This, along with how close to capacity they run, is an important question.
All ships have some food and beverages available. Hot tea, coffee, and water are usually free. Everything else costs money. Most have box lunch style options available, but several offer more.
Most provide or will arrange transportation from either Te Anau or Queensland by bus or coach and/or air. The others offer coach service.
Here’s a bit of what I learned about each cruise provider:
Cruise Milford NZ is a small, family-owned business. Cruises last just under 2 hours and they sail at half of the ships capacity, giving visitors plenty of space.
Go Orange is likely the best cheap option, starting at $57 NZD for a 2-hour cruise. Local craft beer and a better range of food than usual is available on board.
Jucy, the car and campervan rental company geared to younger travelers, offers “classic” and “premium” options, with the premium cruise on a fancy-looking new boat with a glass roof, a range of food and drinks, and screens that project what is happening outside. (If the weather is miserable, this is the cruise to pick.) And, if you rented your vehicle from Juicy, the driver cruises for half-price.
Mitre Peak Milford Sound Cruises only offers 2-hour nature cruises on their smaller boat. Unlike other cruises, they go all the way out to the Tasman Sea. (My cruise just happened to do that because the weather was particularly good. It wasn’t something most cruises usually do.) Because it is a smaller boat, you’ll probably be closer to the shore than on most other boats. Maximum capacity is 75. They also offer an opportunity to visit the Underwater Discover Center.
Real Journeys has the most beautiful ships on Milford Sound. This is a long-term operation with a good reputation, but there’s not much information on their website about the cruise itself or the ship.
Southern Discoveries has offered cruises on Milford Sound for decades and keeps adding options to serve a wide range of visitors. Besides the usual tour packages, they offer the Underwater Discovery Center and kayaking as add-ons. Cruise options vary greatly, so use the useful table showing the differences between their three cruise options and prices. It could mean the difference between being on an almost empty boat with a great naturalist or sharing your cruise with up to 250 package tourists and basic, translated, commentary.
We sailed with Southern Discoveries on a “nature” cruise.
I did a lot of research before booking and finally chose this one because its website was easier to use, I found some good reviews elsewhere, and they offered slightly longer “nature” cruises with a visit to the Underwater Discovery Center. After booking I saw some things that made me think it would be a huge ship packed with big tour groups. Thinking I’d made a mistake, I contacted Southern Discoveries and had a pleasant (and reassuring) conversation.
As it turned out, our late afternoon cruise was practically empty. The boat itself was perfect for any weather and the naturalist provided great information and was good at helping us spot wildlife. The stop at the Discovery Center was longer than I would have liked, but only because it was such a beautiful day and the light outside was perfect for photography!
I recommend Southern Discoveries, but I haven’t tried any of the others. My second choice was Real Journeys (who we used on Doubtful Sound). I would have booked Mitre’s cruise, but I didn’t find that one when I was originally researching my options.
Just remember – while you have plenty of options, Milford Sound will be amazing no matter which cruise company you use.
Overnight cruises
You can also take a Milford Sound night cruise if you spend the night on the boat.
While it would be magical to be on the water in the fjord from dusk through dawn, it’s not like you’ll be traveling any farther or seeing any other scenery. It really is a pretty small fjord and you’ll see all of it on any daytime cruise. However, if you really want to see puffins heading to and from their nests, this is your best bet.
If you want more time on the water, an overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound is a better option. It’s a much larger fjord and more isolated. An overnight trip on Doubtful would feel very far from anywhere else.
A couple of companies offer overnight cruises on Milford Sound, but Real Journeys seems to be the only affordable one.
Paddling Milford Sound
I’m a not much of a paddler. But we were at Milford Sound on an absolutely gorgeous day, and I would have loved to be on the water in a kayak. That’s possible with enough time and a little advanced planning.
Kayak tours are available for paddlers of all abilities. Most tours also include everything you need, including extra layers to keep you warm. Experienced kayakers can venture out on their own, but for most, a tour will offer the best experience.
There are quite a number of companies offering kayak tours, including some of the large cruise companies. (Southern Discoveries, the company we used for our cruise, offers cruise and kayak packages suitable even for absolute beginners and young children.) Unfortunately, I haven’t found a comprehensive list of tour operators. You’ll need to do some searching to determine what is best for you.
Kayak tours run rain or shine and are available throughout the year. Winter trips are colder, but the water is often calmer.
Diving Milford Sound
If it isn’t enough to be on the water, there are also options to spend time exploring in the water!
I’m not a diver, but Milford Sound offers some unusual diving opportunities, including a close-up look at rare black coral. There seem to be a couple of options for divers, but, Descend Milford Sound seems to offer the most comprehensive range of services.
Milford Sound day hikes
If you want to do some hiking and aren’t up to doing the Milford Track, there are a couple short walks near Milford Sound that are worth your time.
Even if you don’t have much time, take 30 minutes to follow the Milford Sound Foreshore Walk from the waterfront parking lot to/from your ship. This trail includes sections of native beech forest as well as stunning views of the fjord. And, along the way, interpretive panels introduce you to the area.
The Milford Sound Lookout Track is another very short trail that takes visitors past Donald Sutherland’s grave and through a bit of the forest along the way to views of Milford Sound and the surrounding area.
After being closed for many years, the Trail to Lady Bowen Falls is open again. The trail requires a short boat trip to reach the section that leads to the falls. A ticket is required. You can purchase one at the Freshwater Basin Terminal.
(No matter which hike you choose, bring plenty of insect repellent, as there will be plenty of sandflies on shore!)
Tour Milford Sound from the air
A Milford Sound plane tour provides a perspective of the area.
Sightseeing flights are available from the Te Anau Manapouri Airport and the Milford Sound Piopiotahi Aerodrome. (There also seem to be a few other small airstrips that provide options for flightseeing and back country tramping.) Privately chartered planes and helicopters offer a variety of sightseeing options, including helicopter tours that land on glaciers and mountains.
If the logistics look too tricky, several companies offer combined coach, cruise, and fly tour packages from Te Anau or Queenstown.
Flights are highly weather-dependent, but operators generally offer a refund or a flight on another date if your flight is canceled. Be sure this is the case. And, if you won’t be in the area for more than a few days, make sure you can get an actual refund, not just a credit for another flight.
Note that flights are expensive and hikers on the Milford Track will curse you for the noise your flight creates in this wilderness area. But the view would be amazing.
Food and Dining along the way
Your best bet is to be more organized than we were and bring a picnic lunch along. But, if you didn’t, there are a few options along the way.
Pioneer Café in Te Anau (connected to the Lone Moose and Fiordlands National Park Lodge) is a full-service café.
Te Anau has a lot of lodging options. It’s also a nice little town with restaurants, grocery stores, and shops. The town sits along the lake and there are plenty of places to relax and enjoy the outdoors without venturing very far afield.
On the other hand, accommodations and services right along Milford Sound are extremely limited. That makes scoring a space a challenge. Of course, that’s offset by the fact that you are in a UNESCO world heritage site and one of New Zealand’s most dramatic landscapes.
Whether you decide to stay in Te Anau or out in Fiordland National Park, book well ahead if you are traveling between October and April. Lodging of all types does book up during the summer season.
Milford Sound accommodations
Lodging near Milford Sound itself is very limited. Reservations are usually necessary for lodge rooms; however, some campsites and hiking huts are available on a first-come, first-served basis.
Be careful if booking through sites like TripAdvisor and Expedia. Glenorchy will come up as the nearest option, but that is only true if you are traveling by private helicopter. Glenorchy is 45 minutes BEYOND Queenstown. And, while a beautiful scenic drive, it is not anywhere near Milford Sound as the highway runs!
There are two lodges in Milford Sound village: Milford Sound Lodge and Mitre Peak Lodge. Back along Milford Road, Knobs Flat offers basic studio rooms.
Milford Sound Lodge
The Milford Sound Lodge offers a variety of accommodations, from backpacker dorms to modern chalets. They also operate the Milford Sound campervan park. (As the name implies, it’s only for campervans, there are no tent sites.)
Fine dining is available for dinner at Pio Pio restaurant. The restaurant is also open for breakfast. (Lunch is available in Milford Sound village.) A large modern kitchen is available for all guests.
Milford Sound Lodge works hard to be a sustainable, eco-friendly option. Book directly through the lodge or check TripAdvisor for reviews and additional booking options.
I don’t think an overnight cruise on Milford Sound is as good a value for the money as on Doubtful Sound. However, it is a way to enjoy the Sound without a lot of other tourists. And you’re more likely to see penguins and other wildlife than day cruisers.
At least two companies offer overnight cruises in Milford Sound. Real Journeys offers varying degrees of luxury aboard the Mariner and the Wanderer. There are reviews on TripAdvisor, but you’ll need to book through the Real Journeys website.
Luxury accommodations are available through Fiordland Discovery. You can book an overnight Fiordland Discovery cruise through their website or on Expedia. (There are also reviews on TripAdvisor, but no booking options.)
Lodges, cabins, and camping off Milford Road
Lodging options between Te Anau and Milford Sound are pretty limited and generally very basic.
Gunns Camp
A detour down Hollyford Road takes you to the historic Gunns Camp. Here basic accommodations are available in cabins once used the by the families of men who worked on the area’s roads. The camp includes both cabins and bunk rooms, many in the original steel-sided cabins from 1938. There is also a campground.
Don’t expect phone coverage or internet. However, there are coal and wood stoves, a generator for charging camera batteries, toilets, hot showers, and a kitchen. There is also a small museum on the site’s history. And some of New Zealand’s finest scenery is right down the trail.
Book through the website (via email) and be prepared to bring everything you need.
Knobs Flat
Knobs Flat Accommodation is located right along Milford Road almost halfway between Te Anau and Milford Sound in the beautiful Eglinton Valley.
It offers simple studio units with basic cooking facilities, including small refrigerators. However, electricity is generated on site, so consumption is carefully managed – there are no TVs, microwave ovens, etc. Nor is there cell phone service.
Knobs Flat also has a small campground suitable for tents or campervans. The campground has access to a kitchen, toilets, hot showers, a coin operated laundry, garbage bins, and recycling. There is no electric service at individual campsites.
Fiordland National Park Lodge
Further still from Milford Sound, Fiordland National Park Lodge at Te Anau Downs offers standard hotel rooms and private suites. All rooms have the usual hotel amenities, including wifi, TV, and mini-refrigerators. Suites have kitchenettes. There is also a full-service café on the property.
Book through the lodge, head over to TripAdvisor to check reviews and compare prices and book, or check room options on Hotels.com or Booking.com.
Lone Moose Backpackers
The other lodging option at Te Anau Downs is the Lone Moose Backpackers. It offers basic accommodations in both private and dorm rooms. It seems to be a new option, and shares a café with Fiordland National Park Lodge.
Book directly through their website, or check reviews and book through TripAdvisor or Hotels.com.
Hiking huts
The New Zealand Department of Conservation operates a number of hiking huts along the various tracks in Fiordland National Park. These range from basic two-bunk shacks with limited facilities to large serviced dorms with water, toilets, heat, and cooking facilities.
DOC campgrounds
Free camping is NOT allowed along Milford Road. However, the New Zealand Department of Conservation provides 8 camping areas just off the road. These are basic sites with toilets, but no drinking water, electricity, or dump stations. Fires are prohibited. All sites are first-come, first-served, but there is a fee to camp.
Te Anau accomodations
While there are few places to spend the night along Milford Road, there are plenty of options in Te Anau. We stayed right in town at the excellent Explorer Motel (which not really what I think of as a motel), but there are lots of options at all price points.
TripAdvisor has a wide variety of options, so I’d start there for reviews and prices. Book through TripAdvisor or check Booking.com or Expedia for still more options. (For some reason Hotels.com doesn’t seem to have as big a selection for Te Anau.)
It’s also worth checking Airbnb, as there are a lot of options in and around Te Anau. And, if you haven’t tried Airbnb, using this link can save you $40 on your first booking.
Resources and inspiration
There’s so much to see in New Zealand, that you’ll want to really think through your options to make the most of your time there.
Websites
Travel information
Destination Fiordland is the regional tourism organization for the area. Its website has a pretty comprehensive list of tour operators, guides, transportation services, accommodations, restaurants, and more. The website is well-organized and logical, making it really easy to use. While the site does push visitors to book tours instead of doing it yourself (after all, getting visitors spend more money is their job), it provides great information for independent travelers too. This might be the best site out there for understanding all your options are as you sort out the details of your Fiordlands trip.
The New Zealand Department of Conservation (Te Papa Alawbai) website includes a lot of information and links to many resources. Unlike all other websites listed here, it doesn’t promote or otherwise advertise specific tours, accommodations, cruises, etc. on the site. Instead it links to the Destination Fiordland site.
The New Zealand tourism website is more advertising links than information, but it seems to be a comprehensive list of what’s available. But be sure to check their recommended trips for planning ideas. They have a variety of itineraries of various lengths geared to different interests. These are really useful planning tools for independent travelers.
The Milford Sound Travel Guide is a great source of information on visiting Milford Sound. It’s created by a group of New Zealanders who work for the InterCity transportation and tour network, but they clearly know and love Milford Sound. It includes the Milford Sound blog, which has a wide variety of posts about the area.
The Te Anau – Milford Highway app on STQRY supposedly has information on sights along the road. I didn’t use it in New Zealand and have had limited success with it at sites in the USA, but it’s worth trying. It can be downloaded before starting out on the Milford Road.
The Te Anau and Manapouri website is a local community initiative, but with a lot of information. While they promote their sponsors, they seem to include everyone on their lists of service providers. And they include a lot of really useful general information – not just a list of options for booking a service.
Similarly, even if you don’t plan to stay there, the Milford Sound Lodge has a lot of really good information on their website.
Other websites
For basic information on all things New Zealand, check the Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand created by the Te Ara and Manatū Taonga Ministry for Culture and Heritage. The presentation is a little superficial (like it’s maybe written for a 4th grader), but there is a lot of information there.
For a dense, relatively readable introduction to the geology of Milford Sound (including references to the Hull-Rust-Mohoning Mine in Minnesota), check Fergus Murray’s page on the geology and glaciation of Milford Sound. It’s part of a relatively in-depth series on the Milford Road and environs.
Printed guidebooks
With the internet available, a lot of people think there’s no need for a guidebook. But I love them for trip planning. I always take a few out of the library while I’m sorting out where I’m going to go, and then buy my one or two of my favorites to take with me.
I’m not sure I could plan a trip without a DK guide, so of course I started planning with DK Eyewitness Guide New Zealand. And I know, if I get back home and my pictures aren’t quite as good as I’d like, I can pull out my DK to show everyone how beautiful it all was!
I like that Insight Guides Explore New Zealand provide more context about the places you are visiting, even if they don’t have as much “how to” info.
Even with Google, I still like to have a good map. The National Geographic New Zealand Adventure Map is an affordable option with lots of travel information. And, of course, there’s always the Michelin New Zealand Map. I don’t recall which one I used for this trip, as I’ve used both companies’ maps on a number of other trips over the years.
4 thoughts on “Driving Milford Road: Even better than a Milford Sound cruise?”
I’ve heard that New Zealand is a beautiful place. Your pictures do it justice, those mountain shots and the waterfall are gorgeous. Makes me want to visit. Wish it wasn’t such a long plane ride. I’ve been to Australia but haven’t made it to NZ yet.
Thank you, Judy, but New Zealand really is beautiful – I think anyone could come up with great pictures! Yes, the long plane ride is a challenge, although we did a multi-airline booking that gave us a few days in the Cook Islands on the way to New Zealand and a few days in Hawaii on the way back, so that helped make the flights a little shorter and a little more bearable. I’d like to get to Australia, but that has the same long flight and the need to block a lot of time. Someday though. But I do recommend New Zealand!
Your photos are SPECTACULAR!! You certainly captured New Zealand’s Milford Road and it’s unparalleled beauty. I have yet to visit New Zealand, but if I ever get the chance I will add this journey to my wish list. I love road trips!
Thank you, Marilyn, that’s very kind. New Zealand is a pretty spectacular country. And it is great road trip territory — just watch the edges, avoid the sheep, and keep repeating: Driver in the center, driver in the center!
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I’ve heard that New Zealand is a beautiful place. Your pictures do it justice, those mountain shots and the waterfall are gorgeous. Makes me want to visit. Wish it wasn’t such a long plane ride. I’ve been to Australia but haven’t made it to NZ yet.
Thank you, Judy, but New Zealand really is beautiful – I think anyone could come up with great pictures! Yes, the long plane ride is a challenge, although we did a multi-airline booking that gave us a few days in the Cook Islands on the way to New Zealand and a few days in Hawaii on the way back, so that helped make the flights a little shorter and a little more bearable. I’d like to get to Australia, but that has the same long flight and the need to block a lot of time. Someday though. But I do recommend New Zealand!
Your photos are SPECTACULAR!! You certainly captured New Zealand’s Milford Road and it’s unparalleled beauty. I have yet to visit New Zealand, but if I ever get the chance I will add this journey to my wish list. I love road trips!
Thank you, Marilyn, that’s very kind. New Zealand is a pretty spectacular country. And it is great road trip territory — just watch the edges, avoid the sheep, and keep repeating: Driver in the center, driver in the center!